The Castles of Burgundy

I admit it, as a girl; I have always been fascinated by castles.  I wanted to live in one, wondering the halls filled with beautiful tapestries, ride my horse through the vast estates of my empire, and be loved by my people.  Childhood fantasies aside, I still enjoy the beauty and romance associated with castles and can easily be drawn to a game that features them.

Truthfully, castles are certainly not the focus of "The Castles of Burgundy."  Still I am easily drawn to this fantastic game and find myself longing to play another round after every game.





Goal of the Game

Players are trying to collect the most victory points by trading, livestock farming, city building and scientific research.  The player with the most points, at the games end, has developed the greatest estate and may claim victory.



Components / Set-up

There are a lot of components that come with this game.  While the board is of very nice quality, I'm not that impressed with the cardboard quality of the rest of the components.  But, this is not an expensive game so I can understand that to a certain extent.  I would be willing to pay more for better quality components.

There are 164 six-sided tiles.  There beige buildings, light green livestock, yellow knowledge, dark green castles, grey mines, and blue ships.  There are also these tiles with black backings.  Other tiles include the 42 goods tiles in six colors, 20 silverlings, 30 worker tiles, 12 bonus tiles, 4 victory point tiles, and 8 playing pieces (2 in each for the 4 player colors).

The game also comes with 9 dice (2 in each player color and one white dice), the game board and six paper player boards. 

To set the game up place the silverlings, worker tiles, and white die next to the game board.  Sort the 164 six-sided tiles by color of their backs and place them in separate face-down piles next to the board.

Now, shuffle the 42 goods tiles face down. These are then separated into five face-down piles of five tiles each.  Place one of the piles on each of the five phase spaces lettered A through E on the game board.  Give each player 3 random goods tiles from the remaining tiles.  The rest should be placed back in the box.

The 12 bonus tiles should be placed on their correct space on the board. 

Now, each player takes one player board.  These are all double-sided.  There are six of the boards.  Four are marked number 1, and there are one each of numbers 2-9.  Start with the side labeled 1 for your first game.  Then take one dark green castle and place it face up onto the dark green middle space of the board (it has a value 6).

The 3 random goods should be placed face up on the three goods spaces on the player board.  Tiles of the same color may be stored together.  Each player also takes the dice of their color, one playing piece of their color to be put on the 0/100 space on the game board.  They also receive 1 silverling that should be visible to all players. 

Players should now roll one dice to determine the starting player.  The player who rolls the highest becomes the first play and receives one worker tile and places onto their player board. The next player in clockwise order receives two worker chips, the third player three, and the fourth, four worker chips.  The second player pieces are used to mark the just determined player order.  The start player takes the white die.

Game play

The game last for five phases (A through E).  Each phase consists of five rounds.

Phase Set-up

At the start of each phase, the following set-up is carried out: remove all six-sided tiles remaining on the board and return them to the box.  The ship, mine, and castle tiles may be left in space because they are all the same.  All remaining goods tiles are also left on the board.

Next, randomly draw new six-sided tiles and place them face-up, onto the matching colored spaces in the six numbered depots.

In a two player game only the spaces marked with 2s are used, in a three player games only the spaces marked with 2s and 3s, and in the four player game all 24 spaces will have tiles placed on them. 

In the three player game only, there is an exception for the dark green space in the number 6 depot. In phases A, C, and E a castle is placed onto it as normal, but in phase B and D a mine is placed there instead.

Now, randomly draw black-backed, six-sided tiles, and place them, face-up on the black depot in the middle of the board.  Two to eight tiles are drawn depending on the player number.  Take the five goods tiles for the current phase and place them, face-up onto the five spaces below the phase spaces.


The Five Game Rounds

After the phase setup, five game rounds follow, each is carried out in the same manner.

First, all players roll their two dice, with the start player also rolling the white die.  Then all players place their dice in front of themselves so that all players can see them.

The start player is first.  They take the topmost goods tile from the round spaces and place it onto the goods space of the depot whose number matches the number rolled on the white die.

With this, the white die's function for this turn is complete; it cannot be used by the start player to assist him on his own turn (and can never be adjusted via worker tiles).

Next, the start player carries out his turn.  Play then moves to the next player in turn order (moving from right to left on the turn order track and from top to bottom in a given tower).

Once each player has had a turn, a new round begins, etc.

As 5 goods tiles are added each phase and since one tile is added to a depot at the start of each round, it is easy to tell which round the current one is and how long the current phase and the game will last.



A Player's Turn

A player's turn consists of carrying out two actions, one per die.  Once a die has been used, it is placed onto the used die storage space in the upper right corner of the player's board.

Worker Tiles:  These tiles may be used at anytime.  Once it is used it is returned to the general supply.  The tiles are used to adjust your die's result up or down by 1.  Changing a die's result from 1 to 6 or from 6 to 1 is also permitted and also costs one worker tile.  Players may use multiple tiles to change a die's results multiple times.

The Actions

A die is required for each action.  The two actions per turn may be carried out in any combination and order (including carrying out the same action twice.)


-Action:  "Take six-sided tile from the game board"

The player may take one six-sided tile of their choice from the depot whose number corresponds to the result of the die used to carry out the action.  The chosen tile is placed onto an empty storage space in the bottom left hand corner (never into the estate.)  Should all of the storage spaces be full, then he must first choose a prior tile to discard (thus removing it from the game) and subsequently place the new tile onto the newly-emptied space.

-Action:  "Add six-sided tile to your estate"

The player may take one six-sided tile of his choice from the storage area in the lower left-hand corner of his board and add it to his estate.   The die is chosen to carry out his action indicates which corresponding empty space he may place the tile onto.  All newly-placed tiles must always lie directly adjacent to at least one previously placed tile.  A tile's color must always match to color of the space it is being placed onto.  The first tile can thus only ever be placed onto one of the six spaces surrounding the start castle.


Depending on what type of tile was placed, the following occurs immediately afterwards:

Knowledge (yellow):  There are 26 different yellow tiles whose functions are described in detail in the rules book.  One tile, for example, allows player to ignore the rule that only one building of each type may be allowed in a city.  This allows the player to add as many buildings of the same type to their city as they wish.  Another tile gives the player 1 victory point at the end of the game for each sold goods tile.  Unsold goods tiles are ignored.

Ship (blue): Whenever a player adds a ship tile to his estate (which can occur up to 6 times), then two things happen immediately,

1.  The player takes all the goods tiles on any one depot's goods space and adds them to the goods storage in the upper left hand corner of this board.  It is important to remember the chosen depot is completely separate and independent of the die result that was used to place the ship.

Each player may collect up to three different types of goods (=colors) in his goods storage area.  Tiles of the same color are always piled on top of each other; different colored tiles are placed next to each other.  If, because of this restriction, a player cannot score all of the goods tiles present in the chosen depot, then he simply leaves behind any good he cannot store.

2.  The player moves his playing piece on the turn order track one space to the right.  Should this pace be occupied, then he places his piece on top of the other pieces.  Should this result in him being start player for the next round then he also receives the white die. 

Animal (=a region of connected light green spaces): Whenever a player adds an animal tile to his estate (which can occur up to six times), then he immediately receives victory points (and moves his playing piece on the victory point track forward).  Each tile has between 2 and 4 animals on it and the player receives the corresponding number of victory points for them.

If they already have an animal tiles with the same animal type they score all tiles with the same animal type again in addition to the newly-placed tile.


The animal tiles must be part of the same pasture but do not need to be immediately adjacent to newly-placed animal tile.  Tiles with the same animal on them on other pastures are not scored. 

Castle (dark green):  Whenever a player adds a castle tile to his estate (which can occur up to 3 times), then he immediately carries out an additional action, of his choice, as if he had an extra die with any result he wishes, at his disposal.  For example, they could add another tile to their estate. 

Mine (grey):  These tiles are (with the exception of a few of the yellow tiles) are the only ones without immediate effect when they are placed. This can occur up to 3 times.  Instead, at the end of each phase, the player receives 1silverling from the supply for each mine in his estate.

Building (beige):  Whenever a player adds a building tile to his estate, which can occur up to 12 times, then they may immediately make a single use of that building's advantage.  Each of the 8 building types may only occur once per city (= a region of connected beige spaces).  Depending on the estate, there may be between 2 and 6 cities of different sizes (1 to 8 spaces).  Each building provides an advantage immediately after having been built.  These are also shown symbolically at left on the player boards. 

One example of buildings are the Warehouse that allows a player to immediately, without having to use a die, sell one goods type of their choice out of their storage as if they had chosen the 'sell goods' action.  Another example of a building is the bank which allows a player to immediately take 2 silverlings from the general supply and add them their own supply.

Placing Buildings

When placing all buildings their additional powers are activated via their placement, a die result is not needed.




Should a player not be able to make use of a building's advantage the tile may still be added but the player loses the advantage.

The supply of worker tiles and silverlings is not intended to be limited.  In the rare case that the supply is exhausted, please substitute other materials.  This may happen, for example, if there aren't any more blue or light green tiles left in the numbered depots after having placed a market.

Additional Rules for Placing Six-Sided Tiles

-Whenever a player takes a six-sided tile from the game board, he must always first place it onto the storage space in the lower left-hand corner of their board.  This is still the case even if he uses his second action to immediately add it to his estate.

-Six-sided tiles, once added to an estate, may never be moved or removed.

- As soon as a colored region, regardless of size, is completely covered with tiles, then that region is considered to be complete and scores victory points in two different ways:

1. Depending on its size (1 to 8 spaces), the completed region scores between 1 and 36 victory points which are immediately scored on the victory point track.

2.  Additionally, depending on the phase, the region scores between 10 and 2 victory points.  The empty space (A-E, in the upper right of the game board) for the current phase indicates how many additional victory points each completed region is worth, regardless of size.  The first phase (A) it would be worth 10.  During the last phase (E), it would be worth 2.

The first player, who manages to cover all spaces of one color in his entire estate with tiles, immediately takes the corresponding large bonus tile from the game board.  They then immediately score victory points depending on the number of players.  5 VP with 2 players, 6 VP with 3 players, or 7 VP with 4 players.

The second player to finish covering up this same color takes the small bonus tile and the corresponding 2 to 4 VP.  Third and fourth do not receive bonus tiles. 

Note:  As soon as a player reaches or exceeds 100 VP on the track, then he places his victory point tile on the board with the 100 side up and if they reach 200 points they flip the tile over.


-Action "Sell Goods"

A player may choose to sell all goods of one type from his goods storage.  The die chosen to carry out this action indicates which goods type (color) may be sold.  All corresponding goods tiles in the player's goods storage are piled, face-down, onto the goods space on the player's board intended for this purpose.  For doing this the player receives: exactly one silverling from the supply, regardless of how many tiles he just sold, as well as 2, 3, or 4 VP per tile.  This is according to the number of players.  Note:  A player must always sell all tiles of a type when choosing the "Sell Goods" action, even if he would like to keep some in reserve.

-Action "Take Worker Tiles"

Finally a player may choose to use any die result to take 2 worker tiles from the general supply.  In this case, the die result itself is meaningless.

The Central Black Depot

In addition to his two dice actions, each player may, once per turn, choose to buy one of the six-sided tiles from the central black depot.  He may do this at any point during his turn.  To accomplish this, the player must return 2 silverlings to the general supply and subsequently place the newly-purchased six-sided tile, as with any tile from the game board, onto an empty space in the lower left-hand corner of his board.

End of Phase

A phase ends after five rounds.  Players with mines now receive the corresponding number of silverlings.  Some of the yellow knowledge tiles may also have an effect.  The next phase then begins. 

Game End

The game ends after the fifth phase has been player through to completion.  Final scoring follows, during which player's receive victory points for the following:

• each unsold goods tile: 1 victory point
• each remaining silverling: 1 victory point
• every two worker tiles: 1 victory point
• each VP-bearing yellow tile - points according to their function

The player who is the farthest along the victory point track is the winner.  In the case of a tie, the winning player is the tied player with the fewest empty estate spaces.  Should there still be a tie, then the winning player is the tied player who went later in turn order.

My Thoughts

Mixing dice with eurogame type mechanics isn't a new concept, it has been used before in games such as Stoneage.  I enjoy this mix a little bit of luck with thoughtful strategy.  It's always fun to roll the dice, but a bad roll is not going to leave you trailing in "Castles of Burgundy." There is always a good option to take during your turn.  It may not have been your optimal choice, but it can still be helpful.  When my dice keep me from getting exactly what I want, I usually take worker tiles.  These tiles can prove invaluable during the game.  It's always wise to have a few extra on hand.  I may also choose to take a tile I won't be able to use right away, but I can keep in my storage area.  I never feel like I'm stuck with a bad roll.

I also like the fact that the complexity of the game is found in game play itself and not the rules.  After a few rounds you understand the flow of the game yet understanding the strategy takes a longer time.  Even after multiple plays I do not believe I could explain the best strategy, the perfect way to win, or how to complete the estate.  I do feel like I can quickly explain the rules to a new player and be enjoying the game together, in a short amount of time.  It means the game has a lot of replay value.  The multiple estate lay outs also add to this value.

During the game I feel like I am actually building a small estate.  It's the same feeling you get when building a ship in Shipyard or a farm in Agricola.  Unlike Agricola, I don't feel like I'm always a step behind, getting through optimal game play.  I like that in Agricola, and I like the visual farm created, but not having that feeling is enjoyable.  I have never accomplished all I wanted to do in Castles of Burgundy, but I have come close.  I have built a decent estate; raised some prize livestock, developed some thriving cities, and gained knowledge through research.  The research tiles can certainly help improve your estate.  In fact all the tiles are helpful and when used properly can lead a player to victory.

I'm still trying to decide if I like the game end conditions.  The in-game timer means that no one can end the game earlier than you wish.  You can plan out your moves according to how much time you have left, trying to make the last move your best.  Sometimes you wish you could make the game last longer, or end earlier.  Yet, it is also nice to know exactly have many moves you have left and make yourself plan accordingly. 

My biggest complaint with the game is the quality.  I know the game was very inexpensive, but I would certainly be willing to pay more for a better quality game.  I think the game would be 
even more popular, than it already is, if the components were better.  I wouldn't hesitate to buy a better production copy.  The components aren't bad, certainly the game board is better than some I've seen, but I worry that the paper mats will hold up over time and I certainly don't want to laminate them in fear that they would become too slippery.   I also like the artwork and the colors.  Yes, like many I wish the yellow was more yellow, but overall the game is beautiful. 

Castles of Burgundy is a game that has found a permanent spot in our collection.  I know I will be playing it in the years to come, hoping one day to completely cover my estate and build those beautiful castles from my childhood dreams. 

Quick Stats

Designer: Stefan Feld
Artists: Julien Delval, Harald Lieske

Publisher: alea, Ravensburger 
Number of Players: 2 - 4
Playing Time:  90 minutes
Mechanics: Dice Rolling, Set Collection, Tile Placement

Photo Credits: Alexandru Stanuta (alex1326), Hilko Drude (HilkMAN), Cássio F. Lemos (verminose), Henk Rolleman (henk.rolleman), Carsten ◄► Wesel(Ceryon), Laszlo Molnar (lacxox), Daniel Indru (djdano), Victor (vthor), Daniel Indru (djdano),Victor (vthor), Forster (KingHeinrich), John Bandettini (JohnBandettini), nature morte (naturemorte), W. Eric Martin (W Eric Martin)

The Battle of Red Cliffs - Solo Play Review (0n Kickstater Now)

There are few games out there that can play well with 1-9 players.  Usually you give something up playing solo or playing at the maximum.  The Battle of Red Cliffs is not one of those games.  It works very well at each level.


In my last preview of the game I talked about everything but solo play so check that one out if you are interested in team play or man on man.  This review is on the solo game.


Goal of the Game

The goal is to gain as much points as possible or reach 50 point before the 5th TZQ (Zhuge Liang) is revealed.

Setup:
1. Remove the event card from the game
2. Shuffle all the cards, including all nine TZQ cards, to form a draw deck
3. Place a card on the discard piles.
4) Draw 6 hand cards from the deck.
5) Next to the score board, place one token of your favorite color under vp 1 and one token of your least favorite color under level 1.

Note, TZQ is not a wild card. It is used as the end game condition.

Game Play

The rules for creating sets are the same for man on man and team play.  The difference is that the card actions and set actions are not available in the solo game.  Also, if a TZQ Card is drawn, place it in the trash pile and move your least favorite token up 1 level. When it reaches level 5, the game ends at end of the turn. 

On your turn you will take the following steps:


1. Draw 1 card
2. Create 1-2 sets or Discard 1-2 cards
3. Refill up to 6 hand cards.
4. Score if you have 5 to 6 score cards.
5. Game end if meets the condition, otherwise continue with next turn.

My Thoughts

I'm starting to understand the value of solo play.  Taking your time, not worrying about others waiting for you to make a decision, and even making mistakes really helps you to get know and understand a game.  That is why I'm very glad that Ta-Te included rules solo play in Red Cliffs.  Playing solo helps me to get to know the game without the pressure of team play or making my opponents wait.  Red Cliffs also works very well as a solo game and is still a lot of fun solo.

You can use it as a tutorial for yourself before you introduce this to other players or to help brush up on your strategy.  It is just another reason to play!  The Battle of Red Cliffs is an absolutely beautiful game.  At every level this is a very strategic game yet the rules are so easy to learn that even new players will feel comfortable enough to play.

You can support the Battle of Red Cliffs now on Kickstater at: http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/tatewu/the-battle-of-red-cliffs-one-to-nine-player-tien-z?ref=live.   Pledge before July 10th to receive one additional Command Card as an Early Bird special!  There are also some really nice stretch goals like additional Command Cards and Event Cards.  And when Red Cliffs is funded $40,000 or more, backers may trade three Command cards for one Score Tower. The Score Tower is UNFOLDED when delivered but instructions are included. This is my favorite Stretch Goal by far! 

 Quick Stats
Publisher: Sunrise Tornado Game Studio
Designer: Ta-Te Wu, E.R. Burgess
Players: 1-9
Time: 25 Min
Age: 10+
Mechanics: Card Drafting, Hand Management, Partnerships, Set Collection

Photo Credits: Ta-Te Wu, E.R. Burgess

Game Built for Two: Revolver

The stage is set in 1892; the bank at Repentance Springs has been robbed.  Many fine up-standing citizens have been killed and the brutal Colty Gang has gotten away.

But don't worry our hero, Colonel Ned McReady and his men are up to the task.  Though the odds are against them, they will bring down these evil-doers. 

This Wild West two player game pits one player against the other in a gunfight to the finish.  Will Colonel McReady and his lawmen save the day or will the Colty gang get away to continue their murderous ways? 



Components / Set - Up

From the tin to the cards, everything about the game is beautiful and of high quality.  There are five battle field cards that are placed in the middle of the playing area.  They are placed in this order:  The Bank of Repentance Springs, Whiskey Canyon, Buzzard Point, Rattlesnake Creek, and 3:15 Express from Rattlesnake Station.

The turn marker is a small wooden white cylinder.  It is placed on the "1" space on The Bank of Repentance Springs card.  At the end of the row of battlefield cards, next to the "3:15 Express from Rattlesnake Springs card," the "Derail the Train" card is placed.

The True Grit tokens show a white cowboy hat with the number 1.  The Power tokens resemble a white poker chip and have a +1 on them.  These tokens are placed in the supply at the beginning of the row of battlefields.


The Cards

Now the "Colty Gang" player places in front of them the sixteen bandit character cards.  These show the members of the Crow's crew.  They also take the Mexican border card, and put twelve tokens on the card.  A True Grit token is placed on the Skinny Landell card.


Both players also take their deck of cards.  The Colty Gang cards say "Wanted Dead or Alive" on the top of the card while the Colonel McReady cards have a sheriff badge.  Shuffle these cards and draw five to form your hand. 

Both decks have the same anatomy.

The top of the card shows the name of the card.  The poker chip shows the Firepower value.  Under the poker chip the cards show the cost to play the card.  This space will also show additional tokens to place on this card when it comes into play and information.

At the bottom of the card, there may be written, some special rules and actions.  The card type is also located here.  


Bandit Character Cards

The Colty Gang player has 16 bandit character cards.  When he has to take a causality from either the play of cards by the Colonel McReady player, or as a result of the Attack phase, he must choose one of these characters. 

The bandit character card has a value printed in the left upper corner of the card, this is their Survival Rating.  The Colty Gang member must choose a casualty with the lowest Survival Rating possible.  If there is a choice, the Colty Gang member can choose from amongst the available gang members.  Some of the gang members have a detrimental effect sated on their card.  When they are chosen, obey the special text.  For example for Missy Jameson one token is added to the "Mexican Border" card.

Battlefield Cards

Between both players are five battlefield cards.  These represent places where both enemies meet. 

It also represents a progressive timeline within the story of the game: starting with the Bank at Repentance Spring and ending with 3:15 Express from Rattlesnake Station.

The top of the card shows cocks the cocks with the "-" are extra turn space that can be used through card play of the Colonel McReady player.  The regular turn spaces have numbers.  For the Rattlesnake Creek battlefield there are extra spaces that can be used by killing "Kittens" and "Skinny."  The bottom of the battlefield shows a poker chip that is the base Defense power of the Colty Gang player.  The battlefields name is also on the bottom of the card.

Object of the Game

This game is won when one player meets the following conditions:  The Colonel McReady player wins if every member of the Colty Gang is killed.  The Colty gang player can win one of two ways.  First, if Jack "The Crow" Colty reaches and survives the 3:15 Express from Rattlesnake Station battlefield turn space 4.  Also they win when they are able to remove all twelve tokens from the Mexican Border card.

Game Play

The game is played in turns.  Each player completes his entire turn before play passes to the opponent.  Play passes back and forth in this fashion until one player wins.  The Colty Gang player always starts the game by taking the first turn. 

Turn Sequence

A turn is divided into four phases:

1. Advance turn makers (only the Colty gang player)
2. Draw two cards
3. Play cards
4. Attack (only the Colonel McReady player)

1.  Advance the turn makers:  At the beginning of his turn, the Colty gang player, advances the turn maker one space forward.  If the turn maker already reached the last number on a battlefield, place the turn marker on the "1" space of the next battlefield.

Note:  The spaces with the "-" are only used when the cards move the turn marker before space  "1".  If the turn marker is on such space move the marker to the next space.

Note:  The spaces with the faces on Rattlesnake Creek Battlefield are only used when "Kittens" Mackenzie and / or Skinny Landel are killed.

In his first turn the Colty Gang player doesn't advance the turn marker and skips this phase. 

 

2.  Draw two cards:  Draw two cards from you deck and take this into your hand.  There is no hand limit.  

3.  Play Cards:  You may put any number of cards from your hand into play on your side of the current battlefield card (the card with the turn marker on it).  To play any card from your hand, you must pay the cost of that card.  (e.g. by discarding cards).  Pay the cost by discarding that number of cards from your hand into your discard pile.  These cards are placed face-up into your discard pile. 

There are three types of cards.  Firepower cards, Row-blocking cards, and one-shot effect cards.  Firepower cards have a white or black poker chip in the top left corner of the card.  The number on the poker chip indicates the firepower (attack) value of the card.  Firepower cards are placed at your side of the playing area.  Row-blocking cards have an orange border and are placed at the battlefield in your opponents playing area (maximum of 2 row-blocking cards per battlefield).  One-shot effect cards have special effects; players follow the instructions on the card and place it on the discard pile.

Cards are always placed at the current battlefield (unless the text on the card states differently).  Imagine there's an imaginary column below and above each battlefield where the cards are placed. 

The Colty Gang player has a three card limit.  This means he can place a maximum of three firepower cards at each battlefield. 

Once three cards are placed he may not place any more cards at that battlefield (unless he removes one of his own firepower cards already in place there or a card stats differently).

The Colonel McReady card has no limit.

Many cards have special rules described in their text.  All text takes effect immediately when the card is played.  These rules are applied to the current battlefield (unless the card stats differently).  The cards in play stay at a battlefield for the rest of the game and may not be moved to another battlefield.  There are a few exceptions to this rule.  A player may choose to discard one of their firepower cards in play at the current battlefield and put it into the discard pile.  An opponent may take a card out of play.  Or you may play a card that specifically says you can move a card to another battlefield or discard it.

Derail the Train:  On-board the 3:15 Express the Colty Gang player can activate the "Derail the Train" card.  This will cause a horrendous train crash:  everything will be destroyed (discard all cards on both sides of the playing area and all still living bandit characters).  If the Colty gang player wants to save someone (he must do this or he's lost), he has to discard one card for each bandit character he saves.  The Colonel McReady player can't save any cards he has in play.  After the "Derail the Train" card has been activated it is removed from the game.

True Grit:  Some characters gain - when entering play or during the game - a true grit token.  This means this character has an extra life.  When this character is killed the first time remove the token on this card and leave the card in play.  Next time when he's killed he'll be removed from the game.


4.  Attack:  During each turn that the Colonel McReady player takes, he can try to kill a bandit using his firepower.  It is important to note that each turn, not only in this phase, that the Colonel McReady player does not kill a Colty Gang member one token is removed from the Mexican border.

To attack, first each player determines their total firepower at their side of the current battlefield.  The Colonel McReady player sums his firepower (contributed by lawmen, buffalo, etc.)  The Colty Gang player does the same and adds the defense power, black power chip in the bottom left corner of the current battlefield to this total.

If the McReady's total power is greater than the gang's at the current battlefield, then the Colty gang player must take a casualty.

End of the Game

Play continues as described until one of the objectives has been meet.  That is if every member of the Colty gang is killed the Colonel McReady player wins.
 
 If Jack "The Crow" Colty reaches and survives the 3:15 Express from Rattlesnake Station battlefield turn space 4, the Colty Gang player wins.  Also the Colty Gang wins when and if he manages to remove all twelve tokens from the Mexican Border card.

My Thoughts

Revolver is an impressive game.  There's a lot of value (A $30 dollar list price!) in the box.  The components are of great quality, as is to be expected with Stronghold Games.  The tin great!  I wasn't sure if I would like the tin but I do like games that fit well in their box with useful inserts and room for possible expansions.  This tin definitely meets those criteria. I also love the artwork, the battlefield scenes are beautiful and really help players to conjure up those images of the Old West.

This brings me to perhaps my favorite part of this game:  the theme.  Revolver really brings you into the theme.  You are playing cards in a desperate race to either save the day or escape with the cash.  The cards, the battlefields, the poker chips, the Mexican border slowly getting closer and closer makes it feel like a gunfight in 1892.  

There is a lot of strategy in the card play.  Do you play this really good card now or wait to later in the game?  Is it better, as the Colonel McReady player, to add more cards to the current battlefield or do you add the Apache Scout to an upcoming battlefield with a +1 firepower.  It's the kind of tension I enjoy because it won't last a long time.  The game is quick.  Usually you are so involved in the game play you don't notice the time.  A true mark of an immersive, fun game.  And the game is a lot of fun. 

 I like the asymmetrical nature of the cards.  Both decks are totally different and each player has a distinctive strategy that would only work for their side.  Asymmetry is rare in boardgames.  I know many dislike asymmetry in games.  I, on the other hand, really enjoy it when it is done as well as it is in Revolver.  It's needed to make the game work as well as it does.  It's a different game depending on which side you play. 

I really enjoy playing this game with my husband and I'm glad he made me sit down and play that demo at Origins.  It wasn't a game that was even on my radar before that moment.  Because Revolver is easy to learn, quick, and fun I'll add this one to my "Recommended to Play with Significant Others list."  As long as they like the theme! 

It does take some time to get to know the decks and the strengths of the cards.  This may mean you play a card instead of saving it for later, or you don't get the cards you need.  This really is a race against time for both players and mistakes can hurt deeply. 

The price point, the theme, the artwork, and the strategy combine to create a game that is not only fun but an experience and a great addition to any collection.

Photo Credits: From www.boardgamegeek.com:  Jonny de Vries (Nekrataal),  Henk Rolleman (henk.rolleman), Mark Chaplin (Yugblad),W. Eric Martin (W Eric Martin), Henk Rolleman (henk.rolleman)

Please note that I didn't take the photos in the blog, I thank all the wonderful gamers out there who care so much about board games that they take such wonderful pictures.

Quick Stats:

Designer: Mark Chaplin 

Artist: Chechu Nieto

Players: 2

Publishers: REXhry, Stonghold Games, White Goblin Games

Time:45 minutes

Ages: 12 and up

Mechanic: Hand Management

Samurai Battles: Commands & Colors Rules Review (Part 2)

Commands & Colors Rules

Commands & Colors Ancients, Memoir '44, BattleLore, three great games that use the same game system, yet create a unique battle experience.  The newest game to utilize this system is Samurai Battles. 

This is a preview of the rules and is part of my three part review of the game.  Why three parts?  Well this game requires a lot more pre-game preparation than most.  There are about 122 miniatures to assemble.  

Therefore, as my husband patiently assembles the miniatures I will review the rules.  I have not yet played the game.  But know and enjoy the system.  Therefore I cannot give my opinion of the game play and I warn you that this will be very rules heavy.


Setting Up the Game

1.  First, choose one of the battles in the scenario booklet.  The first scenario "First Samurai Skirmish" is not a historical scenario, but meant to introduce new players to the basics of Samurai warfare using the Commands & Colors rules. 

2.  Next, arrange the game board tiles according to the battle scenario map in the Scenario booklet.  Each specifics which army is the top or bottom of the battlefield.  Players should sit on the side of the army they command.

3.  Place the terrain hexes on the battlefield as indicated.

4.  Next, place the unit figures and leaders onto the battlefield, matching the various unit's positions and leaders to the scenario's battle map.  Each unit symbol represents an entire unit composed of a banner bearer and additional figures.  Each army has its own distinctive Sahimono flag color.  A colored flag should be inserted into the back of each figure in the army, for a faster set-up, at least into each figure in the army that has a standard.

5.  Each player takes a Samurai Victory card and places it in their play area.

6.  Shuffle the Command card deck thoroughly and deal the number of Command cards to each player as indicated by the scenario's battle notes.  Keep your Command cards a secret.  Set the remaining deck of Command cards face down alongside the board.


7.  Follow the same steps for the Dragon card deck as for the Command card deck.  The Scenario should list how many each player receives. 

8.  Create a common honor and fortune token pool along side the battlefield.  Each player takes the number of honor and fortune tokens from the common pool as indicated by the battle notes and places them in his own reserve pool in their playing area.

9.  Place the battle dice in reach of both players.

10.  Review any special rules or victory conditions that apply for the scenario.

11.  The starting player, as indicated by the battle notes, begins play.




Game-Turn

A Scenario's battle notes state which player goes first.  Players then alternate taking turns, until one of the players reaches the number of victory banners indicated in the victory conditions.

Players Turn

There are five phases per turn and one phase must be completed before proceeding to the next phase.

Phase 1:  Play a Command card
Phase 2:  Order Units and Leaders
Phase 3:  Movement
Phase 4:  Battle
Phase 5:  End of Turn

Phase 1:  Play a Command Card

At the start of a turn, the player must play a Command Card from their hand.  They place it face up, and read it aloud.  Command cards are used to order a player's units to move, battle, or do something special.  The card played dictates in which section(s) of the battlefield orders are issued and how many units may be ordered.  Units may only move or battle when given an order.  There are two types of Command cards:  Section cards and Tactic cards.

A Section Command card is recognizable by an iconic representation of the battlefield in the lower half of the card.  Each card is used to order a set number of units and / or leaders in a section or combination of sections of the battlefield highlighted by an arrow and number.

A Tactic Command card orders units across the battlefield in any section and may allow the ordered units to move and / or battle in ways not normally allowed in the basic rules.  Some Tactic cards are used to order units of the same rank, i.e. units sharing the same standard symbol, or order units of the same type, for example infantry or cavalry.

When the number of units to be ordered is not a fixed number, but instead the Command card stats "For each Command card you have, including this one", the number of units and leaders a player may order is equal to the number of Command cards in their possession.

If a player is ever in a situation where no unit can be ordered by the Command card just played, disregard phases 2 through 4 of the game and go directly to the draw phase.

Phase 2: Order units and Leaders

After playing a Command card, announce which corresponding units or leaders will receive orders.  Only those units or leaders that are issued an order may move, battle, or take a special action during this turn.  Only one order may be given to each unit or leader during the course of a single game turn.


When a unit or leaders is on a hex that is vertically split between the map boards, it may be ordered from either section.

If a Command card issues more orders in a given section of the battlefield, than the number of units or leaders in that section, those additional orders are lost. 

Figures grouped together in the same hex from a unit.  A unit's most important figure is its standard bearer, which proudly carries the unit's banner into combat.  A standard bearer is always a unit's last figure to be eliminated.  Its elimination marks the defeat of a unit, and the gain of a victory banner for the opponent.

A leader figure, when alone in a hex, is still considered a unit and in general will follow the rules for a unit of his type.  An infantry leader (leader figure on foot) will follow the general rules for infantry units, while a cavalry leader will follow the general rules for cavalry units.


A leader figure in the same hex as a friendly unit, is considered to be "attached" to the unit.  The leader will behave like and is subject to the same rules and limitations as the unit he is accompanying.  An infantry leader may only serve as a leader for an infantry unit, while a cavalry leader may lead an infantry or cavalry unit.  The leader and the unit he is with are considered to be a single combined unit for game purposes even though the unit will have two standards, the leader's standard and the unit's standard.

• A leader and the unit he is leader can be ordered together as a single unit at the cost of a single order
• A leader must remain with the unit he is leading unless ordered to split form the unit
• A leader can be ordered to split from the unit he is leader of, at the cost of a single order
• The unit is not ordered when a leader is given an order and splits from a unit
• For the cost of two orders a leader can be ordered to split from one unit he is leading and the unit can also be ordered separately
• When a leader is ordered and the leader moves and joins a unit, the unit the leader joins in not ordered
• When a leader is ordered and the leader moves and joins a unit, the unit the leader joins is not ordered
• A leader may not move, join a unit, and move again with the unit he just joined

Section Command cards and the Shogun card have a Samurai helmet symbol in the top left corner of the card to remind player that a leader, when with a unit, may be ordered separately and split from the unit he is with.  If a Command card does not have a Samurai helmet symbol, a leader may not be ordered to split from the unit he is with.


Phase 3 - Movement

Movements are announced and made sequentially, one ordered unit or leader at a time, in the sequence of a player's choice.  A player must complete one unit or leader movement before beginning another.




Unit Movement

• A unit may only move once per turn
• A unit that is ordered does not have to move
• Ordered units may move from one section of the battlefield into another
• A unit may never move onto any of the half-hexes that border the side of the battlefield
• A unit may only move off the battlefield's baseline half-hexes when explicitly allowed to by the scenarios battle notes
• Two units may not occupy the same hex
• When moving a unit, the unit may note move into or through a hex occupied by friendly units or enemy units and leaders
• A unit may not split off individual figures from a unit: they must stay together and always move as a group
• A unit that is reduced through casualties may not combine with another unit
• Some terrain features impact movement and may prevent a unit from moving its full distance or battling
• An infantry unit may move onto a hex containing a friendly lone cavalry leader, as long as the unit does not already have a leader.  Upon moving onto the lone leader's hex, the cavalry unit most stop and join the leader
• An ordered unit may not move and join a leader and move again if the leader is also ordered to move
• Retreat movement rules vary slightly from ordered movement

An ordered unit will move differently by default according to its rank as noted by the symbol of its standard and its status: infantry or cavalry.

  
Infantry Unit Movement

• Green Circle - An ordered infantry unit with a circle on its standard may move up to two hexes and battle
• Blue Triangle - an ordered infantry unit with a triangle on its standard may move up to one he and battle or two hexes and not battle
• Red Square - an ordered infantry unit with a red square on its standard may move up to 1 hex and battle

Cavalry Movement

• Red Square - an ordered cavalry unit with a square on its standard may move up to two hexes and battle

  
Leader Movement

A leader, when in the same hex as a friendly unit, must move with the unit to the same hex when the unit is ordered, unless the leader is ordered to split from a unit he is with.  A leader and the unit he is leader of, are ordered together as a single unit at the cost of a single order. 

An ordered infantry leader, when not with a unit, may move up to two hexes on his own.  An ordered cavalry leader, when not with a unit, may move up to three hexes on his own.

A leader, moving on his own is subject to the same movement rules and terrain limitations as any other unit in the game, except as follows:

• A leader may only move one per turn
• A leader may be ordered to split from a unit and move according to the leader's movement type statistic
• A leader may move onto and through a hex occupied by another friendly unit, or a friendly leader alone in a hex
• An infantry leader may move onto a hex with a friendly infantry unit and stop in the hex and join the unit
• An cavalry leader may move onto a hex with a friendly infantry unit and stop in the hex and join the unit
•  An ordered leader may not move and join a unit and move again if the unit is ordered to move
• A leader may not stop in a hex with an enemy unit or leader
• Only one leader may occupy a hex
• A leader may never move onto any of the half-hexes that border the side of the battlefield
• A leader may move off his army's baseline side of the battlefield.  Doing so prevents his standard from falling into enemy hands but removes the leader from the battle for the rest of the scenario.  He may not return to play.

  
Moving leaders off the battlefield

As part of his normal movement, a leader not with a unit may move off his side of the battlefield provided he has enough movement.  The move off of his side of the board from a hex adjacent to the board is considered one hex movement.  The half-hexes that border the baseline of the battlefield are not counted as full hexes. 

A leader that moves off the battlefield does not give the opponent a victory banner, but a leader that retreats from the battlefield is out of the battle and may not return on a latter turn.

Phase 4 - Battle

Battles are checked and resolved one unit at a time, in the sequence of the player's choice.  Announce and resolve one unit's battle entirely before beginning the next one

• A unit that is ordered does not have to battle, even when adjacent to enemy units
• A unit may normally battle only once per turn.  In some situations, a unit may gain ground after a successful close combat and then make a bonus combat attack.  This advance and bonus combat must be completed before beginning another unit's battle
• A unit may not target and split its battle dice between several enemy units
• The number of casualties a unit has suffered does not affect the number of battle dice the unit rolls in combat.  A unit with a single figures retains the same combat strength as a unit at full strength
• An ordered unit may only engage in one type of battle when ordered, even if it capable of both ranged and close combat

The combat sequence is purely at the owner's choice and he may freely switch between ranged combat and close combat from one unit to the next unit's turn.

In combat, the number of dice a unit normally rolls is determine by the unit's rank, as shown by the symbol on its standard.

Circle Standard - rolls two dice
Triangle Standard - rolls three dice
Square Standard - rolls four dice

Some units will be subject to combat restrictions caused by their movement prior to battle.




Ranged Combat (Fire)

Only units armed with missile weapons may engage in ranged combat.  In this core game, units with a circle symbol on their standard all have missile weapons.

A unit with a missile weapon battling an enemy unit more than 1 hex away is said to conduct ranged combat at that enemy unit, the "target unit."

• In ranged combat, the target unit must be within both range and line of sight of the firing unit.
• Ranged combat may not be used against an adjacent enemy unit
• A unit with ranged weapons adjacent to an enemy unit may not target and fire upon another, more distant, enemy unit.  If it chooses to battle in this case, the unit must close combat and adjacent enemy unit
• A target unit may not battle back after a ranged combat attack

  
Ranged Combat Procedure

1. Announce firing unit
2. Check Range
3. Check line of sight
4. Determine terrain battle dice reduction
5. Determine Combat and Dragon card adjustments
6. Resolve Battle
7. Score hits
8. Apply retreats

1.  Announce firing unit:  Announce which ordered unit is going to fire and its target enemy.  State the base number of battle dice the ordered unit is entitled to in ranged combat, per the unit's rank.

2.  Check Range:  Verify that your target is in range.  The range is the distance between the firing unit and the enemy target unit, measured in hexes.  When counting range in hexes, include the target unit's hex, but not the firing unit's hex.

- An Ashigaru infantry bow unit has a range of 3 hexes:  (adjacent, no fire dice)(two hexes to target, 2 dice)(three hexes to target, 2 dice).  When an Ashigaru infantry bow moves and engages in ranged combat, the number of battle dice rolled is reduced to one die.

- An Ashigaru infantry arquebus unit has a range of 4 hexes: (adjacent, no fire dice)(two hexes to target, 2 dice)(three hexes to target, 2 dice)(four hexes to target, 1 die).  When an Ashigaru infantry arquebus moves, it may not engage in ranged combat.

3.  Check line of sight:  Verify your target is within line of sight.  A unit must be able to "see" the enemy unit it wants to fire at.  This is known as "line of sight."

Imagine a line drawn from the center of the hex containing the firing unit to the center of the hex contain the target unit.  This line of sight is blocked only if a hex (or part of a hex) between the battling unit and the target hex contains an obstruction.  Obstructions include a unit or leader (regardless if friend or foe), some terrain features, and the half-hexes that border the side and baseline of the battlefield.  The terrain in the target unit's hex does not block line of sight.

If the imaginary line runs along the edge of one or more hexes that contain obstructions, line of sight is not blocked, unless the obstructions are on both sides of the line.

4.  Determine terrain and battle dice reduction:  The terrain in which the target is on, and in some instances, the attacking unit battles from, may impact (usually reduce) the number of battle dice rolled in combat.  Adjust the number of battle dice rolled for terrain.  These reductions will be discussed later.

5.  Determine Combat and Dragon card dice adjustments:  After terrain effects are applied, adjust the number of battle dice, based on any unit special abilities, Command card modifier, and Dragon card modifier.


6.  Resolve Battle:  Roll the adjusted number of battle dice and resolve the resulting dice roll.

7.  Score Hits: The unit firing scores one hit for each dice symbol rolled that matches the targeted unit standard symbol.  A circle will score one hit on a unit with a circle symbol on its standard.  A triangle will score one hit on a unit with a triangle symbol on its standard.  A square will score one hit on a unit with a square symbol on its standard.  An arquebus unit will score one hit in ranged combat for each sword symbol rolled.  A bow unit will not score a hit when a sword symbol is rolled in ranged combat. 

8.  Apply retreats:  After all hits have been resolved, casualties removed and leader causality checks made, retreats are resolved.  

Close Combat

A unit, battling against an enemy unit in an adjacent hex, is said to be in close combat with the enemy unit.  A unit adjacent to an enemy unit must close combat the adjacent enemy unit if it chooses to battle, it cannot use ranged combat against the adjacent enemy unit or another enemy unit within its range.

Close Combat Procedure

1. Announce Close Combat
2. Determine terrain battle dice reductions
3. Determine Leader inspired, Combat Card, and Dragon Card dice adjustments
4. Attacker Resolve Battle
5. Attacker Score Hits
6. Apply Retreats
7. Possible Gain Ground and bonus Close Combat
8. Battle Back.  The defender may battle back in some situations.  If battle back occurs, the defender will battle and apply hits and resolve retreats on the original attacking unit

1.  Announce Close Combat:  Announce which ordered unit is going to attack in close combat and the enemy unit it is attacking.  A unit must be adjacent to an enemy unit to engage in close combat.

State the base number of battle dice the ordered unit is entitled to in close combat, per the unit's rank. 

• An ordered infantry unit with a circle on its stand may stay in position or move one or two hexes and close combat an adjacent enemy with 2 battle dice. 
• An ordered infantry unit with a triangle may stay in position or move one hex and close combat an adjacent enemy with 3 battle dice.  If it moves two hexes, the unit may not battle.
• An ordered infantry unit with a square on its standard may stay in position or move one or two hexes and close combat an adjacent enemy with 4 battle dice.
• An ordered cavalry unit with a square on its standard may stay in position or move one or two hexes and close combat an adjacent enemy unit with 4 battle dice. 

Each close combat attack is declared and resolved one ordered unit at a time, in the sequence of the player's choice.  Resolve one unit's close combat entirely (including any gaining ground, bonus close combat, and battle back) before beginning the next unit's combat.

Note:  Regardless of the number of ordered units adjacent to an enemy unit, each ordered unit close combat attack must be resolved separately.

2.  Determine terrain battle dice reduction:  The terrain in which the target unit is on and, in some instances, the attacking unit battles from, may impact (usually reduce) the number of battle dice rolled in combat.  Adjust the number of battle dice rolled for terrain.

3.  Determine Inspired Leader, Combat Card, and Dragon Card dice adjustments:  After terrain effects are applied, adjust the number of battle dice, based on any unit special abilities, inspired Leader modifier, Command card modifier, and Dragon card modifier.

Leader Inspired Close Combat

A leader, when alone in a hex, may not battle.  When a leader is attached to a unit, he will follow the combat rules of the unit he is accompanying, including retreats and special actions. 

Although a leader may not battle, a leader may still impact a unit's close combat by inspiring the unit.  A player may choose to spend one honor & fortune token to have the leader inspire the unit.  A leader inspired unit will add one die to a unit's close combat dice roll.

An infantry leader (a leader on foot) must be in the same hex as the unit he is going to inspire.  A cavalry leader (mounted leader) can inspire a unit in his hex and may also inspire friendly units in adjacent hexes.

• A maximum of one honor & fortune may be spent on a unit during a close combat, therefore the maximum of only one die may be gained.  
• A unit may be inspired when it is attacking and also when the unit is battling back
• The honor & fortune token is spent and returned to the common pool
• When a player's unit was inspired and rolls the one additional dice in its close combat, the first honor & fortune symbol rolled during close combat will not gain the player an honor & fortune token.  The roll is ignored and no honor & fortune token is collected for the symbol.

4.  Attacker Resolve Battle:  Roll the adjusted number of battle dice and resolve the resulting dice roll.

5.  Attacker Scores Hits:  In close combat, the unit attacking scores one hit for each dice symbol rolled that matches the targeted units standard symbol.  A sword rolled will normally score one hit in close combat, no matter the target units standard symbol with the following exceptions:

• Because of its superior stature, a cavalry unit will ignore one sword rolled against it when attacked in close combat by an infantry unit
• Because of its superior rank, a unit with a square symbol on its standard will ignore one sword rolled against it when attacked in close combat by a unit with a triangle or circle symbol on its standard
• Because of its superior rank, a unit with a triangle symbol on its standard will ignore one sword rolled against it when attacked in close combat by a unit with a circle symbol on its standard

 Note:  Superior rank only applies in close combat, not ranged combat.

 Effect of Close Combat Hits

For each hit scored, one figure is removed from the target unit.  When the last enemy figure with the unit standard is eliminated, place the figure with its standard on your Samurai Victory card.  If more hits are rolled than the number of figures in the enemy unit, these additional hits have no effect.  For scoring a hit on a leader: see the Leader Causality rules section.

A flag rolled in close combat does not cause a hit, but may cause the unit to retreat.

For each honor & fortune symbol rolled in close combat collect one honor & fortune token.  However, remember, when a player's unit was inspired, the first honor & fortune symbol rolled during the combat will not gain the player a token, it is ignored.

6.  Apply Retreats:  After all hits have been resolved, casualties removed and leader casualty checks made, retreats are resolved.


7.  Possible Gain Ground:  (Discussed later)

8.  Battle Back:  In close combat, the defending enemy unit may battle back against the attacking unit if one or more of the defending unit's figures survived the close combat attack and the defending unit did not retreat.

Battle Back procedure will follow the same rules as close combat:

1. Announce Battle Back Close Combat
2. Determine terrain battle dice reduction
3. Determine Inspired Leader and Dragon card adjustments
4. Defender Resolve Battle Back
5. Apply hits
6. Apply retreats 

• A defending unit may still battle back when it is unable to fulfill a required retreat because its retreat path is blocked, as long as it still has one or more figures remaining on the battlefield after taking losses for not being able to complete its retreat movement.
• A defending unit may not battle back when it is forced to retreat out of its original hex, even if the retreat move leaves the retreating defending unit in a hex that is still adjacent to the attacking unit
• No further Battle Back is possible after the defending unit's battle back.  The close combat will stop immediately after the non-active player unit's battle back
• A unit battling back may not gain ground as a bonus close combat attack
• The target of a ranged attack is never eligible to battle back. Only units engaged in a close combat may battle back.
• A target of a ranged attack is never eligible to battle back.  Only units engaged in a close combat may battle back.

 

Retreats

After all hits have been resolved, casualties removed and leader casualty checks made, retreats are resolved.  Each retreat flag rolled against a unit will require a unit to retreat one hex back toward its own side of the battlefield.  Two flags will push the unit back two hexes, etc.

The player controlling the unit that is retreating decides which hex the unit retreats onto, using the following rules:

• A unit must always retreat toward its controlling player's side of the battlefield regardless of what direction the attack came from.  A unit may never retreat sideways.  There are usually two hexes of choice when retreating to a player's side of the battlefield, except near the side of the battlefield.  The retreating player may choose either of these two hexes, but must choose one that is not blocked, occupied, or impassable.
• A unit may never retreat onto any half-hexes that border the side of the battlefield
• A unit may not retreat onto, or through, a hex already containing another unit regardless if friend of foe
• Terrain has no affect on retreat movement, therefore a retreating unit may retreat through, for example, a forest terrain or fordable stream without stopping.  However, impassable terrain may not be retreated onto or through during a retreat move.

 

A friendly infantry unit may retreat onto a hex containing a lone leader (infantry or cavalry leader), as long as the unit does not already have a leader.  Upon moving onto the lone leader's hex, the infantry unit must stop and join the leader, even if the unit has no fulfilled its entire retreat movement.  The unit will ignore any additional retreat movement.

• A friendly cavalry unit may retreat onto a hex containing a lone cavalry leader, as long as the unit does no already have a leader.  Upon moving onto the leaders hex the cavalry unit must stop, join the leader, even if the unit has not fulfilled its entire retreat movement.  The unit will ignore any additional retreat movement.  
• When a unit cannot retreat because the unit's retreat path is occupied by other units or impassable terrain, one hit is scored on the unit for each retreat hex of movement that cannot be completed.
• When a unit cannot retreat because it is at its army baseline, one hit is scored on the unit for each retreat hex of movement that cannot be completed.  The half-hexes that border the baseline of the battlefield are not legal retreat hexes.  

 Leader Retreat

A leader with a unit that retreats must stay with the unit through the units entire retreat movement.  A leader, not with a unit, is subject to the same retreat and terrain limitations as other units following these exceptions:

• A leaders retreat movement is 1, 2 or 3 hexes back toward his side of the battlefield.  The controlling player determines the number of hexes the leader will move, and which path he will take as he retreats.
• A leader may retreat through a hex that contains a friendly unit, a friendly unit with a leader, or another friendly leader.  A unit or leader is not affected when a leader retreats through a hex.
• A leader may not end his retreat movement in a hex that contains another friendly leader, impassable terrain, and enemy unit, or enemy leader.
• A retreating leader may not move through an enemy unit or leader.
• An infantry leader may retreat
• A leader may retreat off of his army's baseline side of the battlefield.  Doing so prevents his standard from falling into enemy's clutches, but removes the leader from the battle for the rest of the scenario.

 

Leader Retreat from the Battlefield

As part of his normal retreat, a leader not with a unit may retreat off his side of the battlefield provided he has enough retreat movement.  The retreat move off the board from an adjacent hex to the board side is considered one hex of retreat movement.  The half-hexes that border the baseline of the battlefield are not counted as full hexes.  A leader that retreats this way does not give the opponents a victory banner, but may not return on a later turn.

Leader Seppuku

Instead of retreating, the controlling player may choose to have a lone leader commit Seppuku (honorable suicide), even if that leader has a clear path for retreat.

A leader commits Seppuku, the owning player removes the leader figure from the battlefield and gains 5 honor & fortune tokens, but the player must lose one Command card from his hand of cards, selected at random by his opponent.  The selected card is discarded.  A leader that commits Seppuku will not give the opponent a victory banner, but the opposition player does draw one Dragon card and adds it to his Dragon cards.

Leader casualty Check

When a leader is with a unit and the unit loses one or more figures in combat (ranged or close combat) there is a chance the leader may also be hit.  A leader casualty check must be rolled against the leader.  If a unit, with a leader, loses one or more figures because it fails to complete a retreat movement, due to a Dragon card, or during a lack of honor roll it does not make a leader casualty check.  A leader casualty check is only made when a unit loses one or more figures in combat.

The opposing player will always roll for a leader casualty checks.  When a hit is scored on the enemy leader on the casualty check, the leader figure with his standard is placed on their Samurai Victory record card.

Ranged Combat Casualty Check Procedure

During a ranged combat attack, when a leader is with a unit and the unit loses one or more figures, but not eliminated, the leader casualty check is made with 2 battle dice.  To hit and eliminate the leader, two swords symbols, must be rolled.  If two swords are not rolled, the leader will survive the casualty check and remains in the unit. 

When a leader is with a unit and all the figures in the unit are eliminated during a ranged combat attack leaving the leader alone in a hex, the leader casualty check is made with 1 battle die.  To hit the leader, a sword symbol must be rolled.  If the leader is not hit, the leader must retreat 1, 2, or 3 hexes, or commit Seppuku.  Flags rolled against a lone leader have no effect.  A  leader, if not eliminated on the casualty check, must always retreat 1, 2 or 3 hexes or commit Seppuku.


Close Combat casualty Check Procedure

During a close combat attack, when a leader is with a unit and the unit loses one or more figures and the unit is not eliminated, the leader casualty check is made with 1 battle die.  To hit and eliminate a leader, a sword symbol must be rolled.  If a sword symbol is not rolled, the leader will survive the casualty check and remains with the unit. 

When a leader is with a unit and all the figures in the unit are eliminated during a close combat attack leaving the leader alone in a hex, the leader casualty check is made with 1 battle die.  To hit a leader, a sword symbol must be rolled.  If the leader is not hit, the leader must retreat 1, 2 or 3 hexes or commit Seppuku.  Flags rolled against a lone leader have no effect.  A leader, if not eliminated on the casualty check, must always retreat 1, 2 or 3 hexes or commit Seppuku.

• If a lone leader cannot retreat the leader must commit Seppuku
• When a lone leader is at the friendly edge of the map, he must retreat off the battlefield or commit Seppuku.
• In close combat after the leader retreats or the leader is eliminated, the unit that was attacking the leader may gain ground onto the vacated hex.

  
Leader Alone in a Hex

When an enemy leader is alone in a hex, not with a unit when being attacked, the attacking unit determines the number of battle dice to roll as normal against the lone leader.  one or more sword symbols rolled will score a hit and eliminate the leader.  Place the leader figure with his standard on your Samurai Victory Record card.

• A range weapon bow unit cannot hit a lone leader in ranged combat, because it does not sore a hit when it rolls a sword symbol in ranged combat
• A arquebus unit can hit a lone leader in ranged combat because it does score a hit when it rolls a sword symbol in ranged combat.

  
Bolster Morale

Some situations will allow a unit to disregard one or more flags rolled against it.  If more than one situation applies, a maximum of two flags may be ignored.

A unit may disregard one or more flags each time it is attacked.  Disregarding a flag result when eligible is purely a matter of choice.  The owning player may decide to accept a flag result and if two flag results can be ignored, the owning player can choose to ignore one and accept one.  All flags rolled against a unit, above and beyond those that can be ignored, automatically trigger a retreat, and must be taken.

A unit may disregard a flag:

• When supported by two friendly units.  Support units may be in any two hexes that are adjacent to the unit.  A unit must determine if it is in support for each attack made against a unit.
• Support is reciprocal, units in three adjacent hexes support each other
• A leader figure, when alone in a hex, may act as an adjacent hex support and will provide support as a unit
• A leader figure, with a unit will allow that unit to ignore one flag.  Note, a leader casualty check takes place prior to determining if a unit must retreat.  Therefore, when a leader is eliminated, the unit may not ignore the flag because the leader is no longer with the unit
• A unit with a square symbol on its standard, may ignore one flag

 

  
Retreat & Loss of Honor

Anytime a unit or leader retreats, the retreat will cause the controlling player to lose honor & fortune tokens.

Circle Standard - must lose 1 honor & fortune token for each hex it retreats

Triangle Standard - must lose 1 honor & fortune token for each hex it retreats

 Square Standard - must lose 2 honor & fortune token for each hex it retreats

A unit, with a leader that retreat will lose 1 additional honor & fortune token for each hex the unit together with the leader retreats.  For example, a retreating unit with a triangle on its standard with a leader will lose 2 honor & fortune tokens for each hex the unit with a leader retreat (1 token for the leader being with the unit).

A leader that is alone in a hex when he retreats, must loose 3 honor & fortune tokens.  After losing 3 honor & fortune, the leader may retreat 1, 2 or 3 hexes.  Note a leader does not lose honor & fortune for each hex he retreats.  A leader that is alone in a hex, instead of retreating may commit Seppuku.

Lack of Honor Roll

When a player does not have enough honor & fortune tokens in his reserve to cover the loss of honor due to retreat or caused by the action of a Dragon card, the player must lose what tokens he has in his reserve and also suffers the following consequences to his army.

The opposition player will roll a "Lack of Honor" roll of 4 dice against the player's army that was not able to pay.

Lack of Honor When a Unit Retreats

When a player cannot pay, because a unit is retreating, after the unit has  completed its retreat movement, each symbol rolled on the lack of honor roll that matches the symbol on the retreating unit's standard will eliminate one figure in the unit that retreated.  Each standard symbol rolled that does not match the retreating unit will cause one figure loss to the nearest unit in the army with a matching symbol on its standard.  The controlling player will choose which unit will lose figures when two or more units are the same distance in hexes from where the retreating unit ended its retreat movement.  A sword, flag or an honor & fortune symbol rolled during a lack of honor roll will not have any effect.

Lack of Honor When a Leader Retreats

When a player cannot pay because of a lone leader retreating, after the leader has completed his retreat movement, one or more sword symbols rolled on the lack of honor roll will eliminate the leader figure.  Each unit standard symbol rolled will also cause one figure loss to the nearest unit in the army with a matching symbol on its standard.  The controlling player will choose which unit will lose figures when two or more units are the same distance in hexes from where the retreating leader ended its retreat.

Lack of Honor from Dragon Card Play

When a player does not have honor tokens to cover the loss from a Dragon card player against him, each symbol rolled on the lack of honor roll will cause one figure loss to a unit in his army with a matching symbol on its standard of the controlling player's choice.

Special Actions


Gaining Ground

When an ordered unit attacks in close combat and eliminates or forces the defending enemy unit to retreat from the hex it occupies, it has conducted a successful close combat.  The victorious attacking attacking unit may advance (move) onto that vacated hex.  This is referred to as a gaining ground.

Gaining ground after a successful close combat is not mandatory.  However, if the unit does not gain ground, the victorious attacking unit forfeits the possible opportunity to make a bonus close combat, even if adjacent to another enemy unit.

The following situations do not allow a unit to gain ground:

• A unit that moves onto a terrain hex the prevents further movement on the turn will prevent a unit from gaining ground
• A unit battling back is not eligible to gain ground
• A unit ordered by a "First Strike" card is not eligible to gain ground

 

Bonus Close Combat

After a successful close combat, a cavalry unit or an infantry unit with a leader that gains ground is eligible to battle in close combat a second time.  This bonus close combat is optional and gaining ground does not require an eligible unit to attack in close combat again.

A unit that qualifies for a bonus close combat attack, after gaining ground, may choose to battle any enemy unit in any adjacent hex.  It does not have to battle the enemy unit that just retreated from the hex.  When a unit's bonus close combat is successful, it may gain ground on the vacated hex, but may not battle again this turn.

Some terrain restrictions will prevent a unit from taking a bonus close combat.

Phase 5 - End of Turn

After all unit's movement and combat have been resolved, the active player draws a new Command card and has the choice of drawing one Dragon card or gaining two honor & fortune tokens.

If the active player did not play a Dragon card during his turn, one Dragon card may be discarded and one honor & fortune token is collected.  A maximum of one Dragon card may be turned in at the end of a player's game turn.

If the Command card deck or the Dragon card deck runs out of cards, shuffle the discarded cards to form a new draw deck. 

Once the active player's Command card is draw and a Dragon card or honor & fortune is replenished, the player's turn is over.

Note:  A player who plays a Dragon card during the opponents turn does not immediately replenish his Dragon card or the honor & fortune tokens.  Replenishment of Dragon cards or honor & fortune token reserve is only done at the end of an active player's turn. 

Honor & Fortune

An army commander, during the Age of Warring States, had to bring some measure of order to the chaos that constantly hung over a fighting army.  For the fighting force that maintained some measure of control and discipline was likely to be the army that won the day.  Honor & fortune in a roundabout way serves to measure an army's discipline, honor, and fortunes of war. 

Players will be challenged to maintain balance between exploiting the use of these tokens to impact the army's fortunes when using Dragon cards and a leader's inspired close combat actions, while at the same time retaining enough honor and fortune to prevent chaos in the ranks, when morale fails and units retreat.

Honor & Fortune tokens are initially placed in a common honor & fortune pool, alongside the game board within easy reach of all players.  During the course of the game, the honor & fortune a player earns is placed in his honor and fortune reserve in his play area.  The number of honor & fortune tokens a player holds in public information throughout the game. 

Managing and Replenishing Honor & Fortune Reserves

Just as important as managing his hand of Command and Dragon cards, a player must carefully watch his honor & fortune token reserve, and make sure to keep adequate reserves if he is to launch his own Dragon card actions at the most opportune time and prevent any figure losses because of lack of honor. 

The following are some ways a player may gain honor & fortune:

• A number of honor & fortune tokens are taken at the game's start as indicated by the scenario's battle notes.
• At the end of an active player's turn, the player opts to pick up two honor & fortune tokens instead of drawing a Dragon card
• At the end of the active player's turn, the player discards one Dragon card and gains one honor & fortune token
• Honor & fortune tokens are gained for each honor and fortune symbol rolled in a close combat battle
• As a result of playing certain Dragon cards

Rolling and honor & fortune symbol during other times during play, for example, a leader casualty check, lack of honor roll, etc. will not gain honor & fortune tokens. 

There is no limit to the number of honor & fortune tokens a player may have in reserve.  However, should the common honor & fortune token pool run out, no further honor & fortune tokens can be gained until the common pool is replenished.  Actions that normally grant honor & fortune tokens grant you nothing instead.

End Game & Victory

Players alternate taking turns, until one player reaches the number of victory banners indicated by the scenario's victory conditions.

Players accumulate victory banners in a number of ways: eliminating enemy units and leaders is the most common way.  Also, accomplishing scenario specific objectives like capturing certain terrain hexes, etc earn victory points.  Such victory conditions will be explicitly spelled out in the scenario's battle notes.

A game ends the very moment a player reaches his required number of victory banners, regardless of when this occurs during the game turn.  This means that a game might end on a successful battle back, with the victory of the active player's opponent.

During the game, if a player hand of Command cards is reduced to a single card due to leader personal challenges and / or leaders that commit Seppuku, the player must surrender.

My Thoughts

The rules, so far, seem very similar to other games in the Commands & Colors system.  Therefore they should be easily learned and understood by those familiar with them.  This may come in the future, or even as a fan created file, but I wish there were more player aides with the game. 


For the first few games it may be difficult to remember the terrain restrictions, number of battle dice, special rules for leaders, and so forth.  There is a helpful player aide that lists all the units but nothing for terrain outside of the rulebook.  But it made out of the same paper as the rulebook and probably won't hold up to continued use.  

I like the use of honor in this game and can see it being something to carefully manage.   There are some very interesting Dragon cards that could quickly change the course of a battle if used a the right time.  This also could add a lot of suspense and action to the game.  From reading the rules and talking to Richard Borg at Origins I really feel this game will capture the warring armies of feudal Japan.

Quick Stats:

Designer: Richard Borg, Konstantin Krivenko
Artist:
Players: 2
Publishers: Zvezda
Time: 60 Min
Ages: 10 and up
Mechanics: Campaign /Battle Card Drive, Dice rolling, Simultaneous Action Selectio

Picture Credits: W. Eric Martin (W Eric Martin), StevenE Smooth Sailing...(StevenE), Bill "BK" Kunes (bkunes), Matt Price (mattprice)