Friday, August 24, 2012

Sergeants Minatures Game: Day of Days

When my husband and I started playing designer boardgames we were drawn to miniatures games with their beautiful pieces and terrain.  We even bought some miniatures on sale during a Fantasy Flight Holiday Sale in hopes of learning the rules and trying the game.  A few years later they are used only as proxies for our boardgames, the rules started but never finished.

The rulers, the binders and binders of information for every possible scenario, the time investment needed to prepare to play and to actually play and the overall complexity of miniatures gaming has kept me away.  I admire the talent and time investment needed but prefer the rules and ease of boardgames.

So when my husband told me about Sergeants Miniatures I hesitated;  first because that it was a miniatures game, and second because of the price.  He assured me that there weren't binders and binders of rules, no need to paint lots of figures, and the price was worth it.  To be extra sure we took a trip to the World Board gaming Championships happening not too far away from home, and demoed the game with its designer. 

Jeff gave a brief introduction to the rules, a bit of history of the game, and then said we could start playing.  Really, a few minutes of introduction was all it took and I was playing a miniatures game and thoroughly enjoying it.  I'll explain why in detail at the end of the review.

I was impressed with not only the game but the company and the people behind it.  Jeff and his daughter were wonderful and so excited about the game and future expansions that we will soon see.  They talked of the quality and the company and the people who play the game with such pride and conviction that it made me feel good about the investment we were making. 

Introduction to SMG

"Sergeants Miniatures Game is a World War II, man to man, card-driven, skirmish level strategy game."  It's a mouthful but it does explain the basics of Sergeants Miniatures. Throughout the game players may control or be confronted by squads as small as 4 soldiers or as large as 15.  Game elements create a unique story with individual soldiers where few things happen the same way twice.

Cards are the main focus of Sergeants Miniatures.   The cards do many things at each step of the game.   The Story Deck, contains Phase Cards and they control the action and monitor the possibility of a random event happening.



Each soldier comes with Action Cards that incorporate his skills, abilities, and personality.  When a team is chosen, all of their cards are put together to create an Action Deck.

There are also Order Cards.  These cards are handed out randomly at the beginning of the scenario.  They set the objectives for a player and sometimes offer bonus points for achieving certain conditions.

Orders create interesting combat situations.  Having a range of possible objectives within the same scenario keeps opponents guessing.  

Set-Up / Components

Sergeants Miniatures is played using scenarios and each scenario contains a situation report describing who is fighting and why.  Orders used in that scenario define victory criteria, force levels that may include characters essential to the story and the map layout used in the scenario.

After players choose the scenario they wish to play they assemble the map.  The layout is pictured in the Scenario book.  The map pieces fit together like a puzzle and are double-sided.  They are made of a heavy type of cardboard and are very durable.  The map, like all the components are well made, detailed, and of the highest quality.  When you get your set it may be wise to wipe down the map because there is some residue from the cutting process.  It just takes a few minutes but will keep you from getting black on your fingers and other things. 

After assembling the map, players assemble the frame.  Some people have had trouble with the frame.  So be careful and if needed check the instructions online.  Early versions of "Day of Days" frame had a larger frame with places for the cards.  Newer versions have a much slimmer frame.  Cards are now placed on player mats.  

Next players choose their soldiers for the Scenario.  The game comes with 8 pre-painted pewter figures, for Sergeants, Privates, and "Characters."  These figures are amazing.  They are all hand painted by the company, and even come in different poses and with different weapons.  Each soldier has a dog tag, upon which you will need to glue him.  That dog tag shows his unique name and Dog Tag number.  You will need to punch out the soldiers' dog tags,  pinned marker, and grenade / spotted markers from the base.  As with the board tiles these should be wiped down to remove any residue.

Then the soldier must be glued to the base. Glue dots are included, but looking at the forums it was advised that you use superglue.  You may want to go as far as filing off the extra metal on some of the figures bases so they sit better on the dog tag.  We enjoyed looking at the different stats of the soldiers trying to figure out their personality and best traits.  Then we tried to match the mini with the soldier to best show this. 

A few of the soldiers are Characters.  Everyone who buys the game gets that same soldier.  Cards from the Story deck may affect those specific characters.  Most of the miniatures are unique with different last names and Dog Tag numbers.  Their personality comes out in their action cards.  Some may be really great at hiding, or spotting.  Others may be clumsy are easily spooked.  I love this aspect of the game and find it amazing that no one else out there has a soldier quite like mine.

The soldiers are worth different amount of victory points when killed or captured by your opponent.  Scenarios usually give you a victory point limit when choosing soldiers for a scenario, or they may tell you to include a character along with the other soldiers. 

After choosing your squad keep their stats card in front of you and mix together the Soldiers Action cards into a single Action Deck.  Draw an Orders card randomly from the scenario Orders section.  All the cards are coated with a glossy finish.  They are thick and high quality.  I personally don't like the glossy finish; I prefer linen finish.

The Scenario will also instruct you to remove any landmark cards that are not used and add any that are into the Story Deck.  Soldiers will also either begin off the map or on the map,  depending on the scenario and Order Cards instructions.

The Game also comes with double -sided spotted markers / grenade markers and pinned markers.  These are made of the same cardboard as the map and dog tags so as a precaution they should also be wiped down before playing the game.  



Story Deck

The Story Deck controls the action sequence using Phase Cards.  At the beginning of each turn three new Phase Cards are revealed and placed face up to reveal the order of actions that may be taken during a turn.  These actions will be either Move, Shoot, Look or Hide.  There are two possible actions on each phase card and be combined in any order.  For example it may say Move and then Hide or Look and then Shoot or Shoot and then Move.  Players must play one action card that matches either of the actions on the Phase Card for each of the three cards.  The top action will be resolved first during game play and the bottom second.  If players both play the same action during the phase, the player with initiative goes first.  The Story Cards also contain story elements that may produce Random Events


Cause and Effect (Random Events)

The lower portions of the Story Cards contain graphics that may sometimes trigger a "random event" to occur in the scenario.  It requires a two part combination so the rule book calls it Cause and Effect.  The large colored boxes of text and a small colored box of text must be the same.  Both are labeled with terms such as Weather, Weird, or Landmark.  When two cards "cause" and "effect" match an event has occurred, the text inside the "effect" card is carried out immediately.  When two random events occur, the second cards event should occur first and then the third cards event.  These events can affect the story line and are totally random.  I enjoy when an event occurs.  We have had our orders changed in the middle of a game, soldiers injured from a crashing plane or storm, and had to reload our weapons discarding all our shoot cards for one round.  I think it adds re-playability and some excitement to the game.  I wasn't so sure my husband liked the change of orders event; luckily it happened on the second turn of the game and not towards the end.


Game Play

Once you know the basics, SMG is really easy to play especially for a miniatures game.  The game is played in turns and once all the steps are complete, a new turn begins at step one.

1.  Reveal the top three Phase Cards from the Story Deck and place them in order drawn on the card mat.  (If there are less than three Phase Cards remaining the game ends.  Determine victory.)

2.  Players draw Action cards equal to the scenario draw Cards value and additional action cards equal to the Draw Cards value found in the "Look" box on their Soldiers.  (If there are any Hold cards under a soldier, they may add them to their hand now.)

3.  Resolve any events that are triggered by the Cause and Effect chain in the order they occurred.  Normal rules apply to events. 

4.  Determine which player has the Initiative.  In a game with more than 2 players, determine which players have initiative, as the sequence works from one player to another not just one side over the other.


5.  Player place Action cards on their sequence mat, face down, to match either action on the corresponding Phase Card.  All empty spaces must be filled -playing the most cards possible from your hand.  If a player in unable to fill all phases with Action Cards, play as many cards as possible and declare the shortfall.  Show all remaining cards to the opponents so they can confirm you have played as many cards as possible.  Discard all remaining cards from your hand and draw one Action Card at a time until one can be played on the empty space.  Discard all unplayable cards.  Continue until all phases are filled.

6.  Players resolve Action Cards played in step 5 in order displayed on the Phase Card.  If player are taking the same action in the same Phase, use Initiative to resolve who takes the action first.  At the end of each phase, Soldiers in Combat Contact with enemy soldier fight.

Soldiers

 With a soldier is included cards, a painted miniature, and a base with the Soldiers name and Dog Tag number.  The front part of the base is called the "Shooting Arc."  All shooting, tossing, and fighting occur only through this arc.  When moving a soldier, it is important to position the arc in the direction you wish him to face, as you cannot change this direction until another Move action happens.

The Dog Tag shape on the back of the base is important as well.  This designates the actual location of the soldier on the map board.  to be "In Cover," the Dog Tag should be sitting on the art of that cover shown on the map.

The soldiers in SMG are Privates, Leaders, and Characters.

Privates

The Privates are the army's rank-and-file soldiers.  These are the grunts and will most often make up the bulk of the squad.  Each private has a single soldier card, four core Action Cards, and three Private Soldier Action Cards. 

Leaders

SMG works on the idea that every Leader started out as a Private somewhere.  Leader packages consist of a private, Junior NCO and a senior sergeant for each leader. 

During force selection, a player may choose any one of the soldier cards for his force - counting the soldier's victory points against the total for the forces allowed in the scenario.  Once the selection is made, add the soldier's four core Action Cards and the three Action Cards that match the Soldiers rank into the Action Deck.  Note that Starter sets such as Day of Days use "Characters" for Leaders, who only work at their given rank.

Characters

Characters are similar to the other Soldiers in all ways but two.

The first is that there are Characters that come with each new SMG Story that are the same in everyone's box. They are the only soldiers in SMG that are not unique.  Characters have some cards integrated into the Story Deck for certain scenarios.  And therein is the second difference.  If there are Character cards in the Story Deck, then the Character figure cannot be killed in the scenario.  If he receives a Kill effect or is wounded and receives an additional wound (which normally kills the soldier) then he is incapacitated in the scenario.  Something may happen that changes his status.  If the scenario ends and he is still lying wounded, consider him a kill in terms of Victory Points.  In future releases there also may be Campaign rules in which characters also have differences.  Characters are also leaders but they do not have cards at different ranks. 


Measuring Distances

In order to check the possibility for shooting, sighting, and hiding, you must be able to check the distance between 2 soldiers on the map. 

The map squares are used to count short and long ranges: once the action gets close, inches are used for ranges instead of squares.  Landmarks count as two squares when counting distance on the map. 

To determine distance lay the ruler on a straight line between soldiers involved in the distance check.  All squares cut by the line of sight are counted as the distance.  (In rare cases where the line is exactly on corners use the square or landmark with the lowest modifiers for checks being counted.)

Count the squares (or measure the inches) between the two soldiers and then factor in the appropriate modifiers.  When shooting, sum all the pink Shoot terrain modifiers from all squares that are passed through, excluding the shooter's square.  For sighting, sum the green Look modifiers. 

Soldiers use the ground they are on to the best advantage.  The modifiers in the Soldier's square don't interfere with look or shoot actions taken by them.  The Hide action let's soldiers use the advantages of the ground he is on, and in this case he may apply the modifiers for his own square.

Action cards

All Action cards have many different elements that are used for game play effects.

The Damage result is used to find out what happens after a Hit is determined.  The "Talk Bubble" contains the group action description.  When his card is used in reply to a Phase Card, any soldier under that player's control may be selected to do this group action.  Along the upper row is a colored bar for the Action this card can be applied to and a "Hit Check" box, for use during Shooting.

There is a blank space between the Hit Check and the talk bubble.  There sometimes is a square box included here.  A white box is a "permissible action" which is something extra, outside the normal action that the named soldier may do.  If the box is blue, it is a "required action," and something the named soldier must do if this card is played.  Normal rules apply to both of these actions.

When you play an Action Card, you will always be able t apply the "talk bubble" results to any soldier under your command.  Additionally, the specific soldier whose action card is being used may also take advantage of the Action card with a single action that applies to that action.

When you draw your last Action Card you may reshuffle the Action Deck and continue to play. 

Types of Actions

Look 

The Look action allows soldier to try and "Sight" the enemy and to prepare for what's ahead by drawing cards.

Draw

The Soldier with the "Draw Cards" number in the look are contributes to the leadership o the force by allowing the player to draw Action Cards from the Action Cards Deck.  At the start of every turn, all soldiers in the group with a Draw Cards value are used to draw cards in additional to the scenario draw card allowance.  Also, whenever a Look Action Card is played that has the Soldier's Id on the card, the Soldier can make a sight attempt or the player can draw extra Action Cards - Cards drawn during the turn can mean Initiative changes, and allow for more choices to add as a Hold Card under a soldier. A pin reduces the number of cards drawn but not the number of cards in hand.


Sight

Sighting allows a soldier to try and see a hidden enemy soldier and alter his hidden status.  Announce the sight attempt like this - "Fields is sighting Fritz - the range is 9 squares - Fields sights out to 22 squares minus 7 squares for the cover in line of sight - Fritz is spotted."

Remember that the Sight value is summed with the Look terrain modifier for each square that the line of sight goes through (excluding the soldiers square).  When the Sight attempt is successful, place a spotted marker with the figure.  He is now considered spotted for all enemy soldiers, and will carry the spotted marker with him until the successfully takes cover. 


Hide

The Hide action allows a soldier to try and take cover, rally his buddies and keep a few tricks up his sleeve by holding cards.

Take Cover

Soldiers remove spotted markers when they successfully take cover.  Only soldiers that have their dog tag sitting in terrain are able to take cover.  The second requirement to take cover is to be far enough away from all enemy soldiers to escape notice.  The first step in checking to see if your soldier is able to take cover is to ask your opponent is they can take cover, as it might be obvious.  If they agree, the soldier takes cover and the spotted marker is removed.  Otherwise the opponent designates one soldier to be the spotter in the Take Cover check.

Using the cover value of your soldier, sum the Hide terrain effects value of all map squares and Landmarks that are on a straight line from your soldier to the spotter, including both the spotter's and the hider's square.  If the modified cover value is negative, your soldier is able to take cover so remove the spotted marker.

Pinned results works slightly differently here.  When pinned, soldiers who have positive cover values 1/2 those numbers, rounded down to zero.  Soldiers who have negative cover values also "halve toward zero." meaning the soldier with a cover value of -2 who is pinned now has a cover value of -1.  Yes, this means that soldiers with poor cover values can Hide more easily, while those with good cover values lose some of their ability.

Rally

Rally removes pin markers form soldiers.

There are two ways to rally troops - the first is from a group action that says Rally some number of soldiers.  The second is when a Hide action is played, the Soldier that owns that card may Rally up to the number of soldiers listed in his Rally line - for example, Rally 2 men will Rally any two Pinned soldiers that are within the walk distance of the soldier that own the card (including the terrain modifiers of the square containing the rallying soldier.)  Note that the soldiers may rally themselves or other while pinned, but their rally values (and movement range) are cut in half.  Removing the pin marker does not change spotted or hidden status.

Hold Cards

If a soldier has a Hold value in the Hide box and he "owns" the card currently in play, any Action card up to the Hold value may be moved from the player's hand and placed under the Soldiers card.  This may change initiative since cards under a soldier are not part of the player's hand.  Cards may be moved from the soldier to the player's hand after the player has drawn cards at the start of the turn, or at the beginning of any phase, after Action Cards are revealed but before either player has begun to move.  This may change initiative.  If a soldier is killed while holding cards they are discarded.

Move

The Move Action allows soldiers to change their location and engage in hand-to-hand fighting.  All move action use the walk section of the move box. 

Walk

Walk is your basic movement distance for a soldier.  The ability to move multiple times in a phase allows the soldier to jog, run or sprint.  A solider that is walking may move up to the maximum "walk" distance, minus the move modifier from the square or landmark the occupies at the start of the move.  So you pay for the terrain the soldier starts in, not the terrain he moves into during the turn.  Players may move soldiers in any direction, without regard to facing while they move, and then face the soldier in any direction at the end of the move.

While moving, the soldier may not cross or enter any terrain type that contains the no move legend.  A soldier must end its move fully inside of a square or landmark.  At the end of the turn all soldiers that are on cut lines of squares or landmarks are moved clear of the line by the opponent. 

A soldier with a pin marker halves all walk distances round fractions down.

Climb

Some terrain has a climb cost that must be paid to enter the location.  As long as the soldiers climb number is greater than the terrain level number, the soldier may enter the location.  All terrain levels are assumed to be 1 ground level unless otherwise stated.  (There is no climb required in Day of Days.)

Fight

"Fight" involves very close combat including shooting, bayonets, or clubbed weapons.  Soldiers must fight at the conclusion of each phase if they are in combat contact.  To resolve hand to hand combat, first check initiative.  Then set your hand of Action cards. 

For each soldier in this specific combat, and who has proper combat contact, draw action cards equal to the fight value of the soldier (found in the move box).


The player with the initiative plays one card (and applies its combat result) against any enemy soldier that is contacted by any of the player's soldier in combat contact.  The card takes effect immediately.  The next player in initiative order may now play an Action card against any soldier in combat contact with one of their soldiers.  Play continues as long as any player can play an action card as part of the fight. 

A wounded soldier who receives a second wound result is killed and removed from play.  If there are still soldiers surviving after all fight cards are used up, they remain locked in combat contact through the next phase and, after both action on the story card are complete, renew the combat in the same sequence as before (determine initiative first, and then alternate play).  Results like pin and wound carry over beyond the fight.

If you have more than one case of Combat contact, resolve fights with the most soldier in combat contact first and continue to the least number of soldiers in a fight.  Ties are resolved by the group with the lowest serial number soldier going first.

Prisoners:  When a Kill result is played, the soldier surviving the fight may choose to capture the losing soldier and take him prisoner. 

Combat Contact

When soldiers are in base-to-base contact with an enemy soldier, and at least one of then has his shooting arc in this contact they are both to be in combat contact and will fight at the end of the phase.  Only soldiers whose shooting arch is touching the enemy soldier will draw cards in the fight. 

Soldiers in combat contact may only change facing if they play a move action.  No other actions are allowed while in combat contact. Any soldiers involved in Combat Contact are immediately spotted.

Prisoners

A prisoner can be taken as part of a fight, or may be assigned by an event are scenario special rule.  All prisoners must have an escorting soldier in base to base contact at all times.  Prisoners held at the end of the game count double VP and may also receive a bonus from the player's order card.  Prisoners are always considered to be in Combat Contact, regardless of facing.

If the escorting soldier is forced to fight by another un-captured soldier, the prisoner first becomes pinned and also fights.  A prisoner and escort may be fired upon by soldiers from the prisoner's side who are at close range.  Any hits caused by the fire alternate between the target (escorting soldier) and prisoner, with the escort taking first hits.

While escorting a prisoner, a soldier cannot shoot or try to sight enemy soldiers.  He can move at normal speeds (but may not do more than one move per action card), taking the prisoner wherever he goes.  He can choose to exit the board through an appropriate Entry area -- not an enemy entry area.  He can also attempt to Take cover / hide and, if successful the prisoner is considered hidden as well.

Shoot

The shoot action is used to attack enemy soldiers with either small arms or explosives.  Only soldiers that are spotted by be shot at.  A soldier taking a shoot action selects a target soldier that is spotted, determines the distance to that soldier, makes one or more hit checks, and if hits are scored, the target soldier's player determines the combat results using his action deck.

Shooting Arc

Soldier may only shoot in the direction they are facing.  To be a valid target the enemy soldier must be in the shooting soldier's shooting Arc.

Hit Check

As range decreases accuracy increases. The Hit Check is used to determine if a shot has hit its target.  All small arms - rifles, pistols, automatic rifles, submarine guns and machine guns - check for hits by applying the distance to the ranges found in the shoot box of the firing soldier's card.  Draw from the Action Deck and look at the Hit Check box, using all the results that are at or Longer than the distance you determined. 



For example, if the distance to the target is 4 inches and the shooting soldier's ranges are Long 8 squares, short 5 squares and Close 10 inches, then all three Hit Checks apply to the shoot.  Draw one action card and check all three results for hits.  Therefore you can get more than one hit on a single card.  If the modified range to the target was 7 squares, you would draw an action card and look at only the long portion of the Hit Check area.

Any and all hits scored on the Hit Check are applied to the soldier that is being shot at.  For each hit on a solider, the owning player pulls one damage result from his action deck.


Use Hit+

The "Use Hit+" effect in the Shoot Box appears for soldiers who are armed with high rate of fire weapons such as automatic rifles, sub machine-guns, and machine-guns.  When one of these soldiers gets a Hit Check result of Hit+, there is the chance of more than one hit.  Before the target draws a card to check for damage the owning player can choose to draw more Hit Check cards.  He can pull cards for the same target (to try for additional hits) or shift to different spotted enemies within 3" (and still in his firing arc).  There is no limit to the number of Hit+ results that can be strung together in a single Shoot action (as long as Hit+ is one of the applicable results on the Hit Check).  Shots at other soldiers use the same original distance calculation results- so if (for example) the first shoot checked close, short, and long ranges, the additional shots continue to check these results, even if the new target is at a longer range than the original target. 

If the shooting soldier does not have Use Hit+ on his card, a Hit+ result is treated as a regular hit.

Grenades

During any shoot action, soldiers with grenade markers on their soldier card may toss one grenade.  Tossing a grenade does not produce a spotted marker on the soldier.  The grenade can be tossed at any spotted soldier within toss range that is in their shooting arc.  Toss range is affected by the Shoot terrain modifiers by inches, just like Close fire.  Grenades use the grenade blast circle at the base of the SMG ruler.


All soldiers that have any portion of their base under the blast circle are attacked by the grenade - including friendly and unspotted soldiers.  For each soldier in the blast area, the owning player pulls a separate Hit Check from his own Action Deck, using the Blast line and resolving hits normally.

Damage Results

Zip - nothing happened, the hit was ineffective

Pin - place a pinned marker, all stats are halved, rounded down, while pinned

Wound - Turn the soldier card to the wounded side (If he is already wounded, he is killed instead).  Use the new stats on this side of the soldier card.

Kill - give the soldier card to the opponent that killed the soldier for VPs and remove the miniature from the map (but see character rules)

Initiative

Initiative is used to determine what player takes an action first when more than one player is scheduled for the same kind of action.  Check initiative whenever this sort of tie happens.  Which player has initiative can change during the turn, as players add or lose cards and as player "compete" for who takes the action first with different players on the other side.  The player to solely satisfy the first of the following conditions has the initiative.

1.  The player holding the most cards in his hand.
2.  The highest VP soldier in play.
3.  The lowest serial number soldiers

Dog Tag 

The dog tag is much more than a label on the base of the figure.  In order to take advantage of cover, the dog tag portion of the soldier's base must be on a piece of terrain.  In addition, when an Action Card is played during a Phase, the card "belongs" to a single soldier.  At the start of the action the soldier whose dog tag is on the Action Card may take an action of the type on the card.  Note:  this will add an additional Hide, Look, Shoot, or Move action to those listed on the card.  The soldier may do the same Action as described by the bubble on the card, or any other task that the action allows (such as a rally during a hide).

 
Scenarios and Selecting Soldiers

All scenarios may be played with as few as four figures.  However, there may be more interest if you can organize your own squad, selecting soldiers and equipment by spending VPs on them.  The scenarios have force levels for different numbers of players, ranging from 2 to 6 players.  Basic ammunition is assumed to be sufficient for the scenario; however special ammunition and equipment is specified in the scenario, such as grenades.  The cost for special equipment like a radio, AT device, satchel charge, etc., is specified on the equipment cards located in expansions.  Grenades are specified in the scenario as the starting number of grenades and the VP cost for additional grenades.  Scenario maps will all designate areas like A. B, C, or X, Y, Z, which may be important for set-up and entry.  Also included in the scenario description is a quick reference guide that indicates the number of turns and the typical fore level for the scenario.  The force levels for the two sides are an indication, not a requirement.  Depending on the VP spent on soldiers and equipment the number of soldiers may be different from the suggested number for the scenario.  The force levels are only a guide but you can make your own decisions. 

Selection of Soldiers and Buying Equipment

Each soldier has four Action Cards that are always included in the Action Deck.  The core action cards are marked with the national symbol.  Added to the four core cards are three cards matching he soldier's rank.  When choosing your forces for a scenario, select the solider card based on the available Victory Points.  Select soldiers that total up to the maximum VP specified in the scenario.  Two grenades may be purchased for each VP, unless the scenario specifies a different cost.  Some scenarios allow for extra equipment or tactics cards to be purchased at this time.  In Day of Days, Grenades are the only equipment available to purchase.


Map

Play takes place on a map made up of 5 inch squares and 10 inch Landmarks.  All map squares are identified by a number, Landmarks are identified by the letter "L" followed by a number.  For example, L2A is a Landmark where 2A is a map square.  Around the identification plague are the terrain effects.  For ease of assembly, each piece will have the same number and A/B on opposite sides.  Each map number is unique.  Future expansions will pick up the series numbers so scenarios will be easy to assemble.


In Cover

Soldiers are in Cover if the Dog Tag of the soldier's base is completely inside of some terrain feature on the map that is not open terrain.  This can be a tree, wall, building or even a hedge with a "No Move" sign.

Landmarks

Landmarks count as two squares and have special story events associated with each landmark.  There are about two to five random events in the Story deck.  If a landmark is in play then the landmarks story cards are added to the store deck.  If it isn't in play these are removed.

Orders

Each player in a game randomly draws one Order Card at the start of the scenario.  These cards provide additional Victory Points for certain actions are specific instructions that may guide the player for that scenario.  There will usually be several choices of order cards available.  It is possible that players will get different orders when they play a scenario again, which of course adds to re-playability.

Some Order cards involve specific landmarks and should not be included in the Orders deck if that landmark is not on the map.  Some Orders also have a bonus VP value that shows a national symbol.  These cards can only be used by their respective side.

The details of the orders card should be kept secret from the other players, even those on your side.  In scenarios that have multiple players each player will have an Order Card.

Scenario Draw Base

During each turn of a scenario, players draw a base number of Action cards before adding any additional draw cards due the capabilities of the soldiers.  The scenario draw base is assumed to be 3 cards, unless other stated in the scenario.

Victory

Some scenarios call for a specific number of turns.  If there is no such fixed time, scenarios end when it is not possible to place 3 Phase Cards from the Story deck.  The player with the most victory points at the end of the scenario is the winner.  Victory points are gained from various methods.  If all the soldiers on one side are eliminated, the other side wins an instant victory, (unless Scenario Victory conditions dictate otherwise).  In games with more than 2 players, the survivor with the most points wins.  Of course, if a player wished to concede defeat, you can end the scenario when you want to end it.  Future Campaign rules will make it important for players to actually withdraw from the map and preserve as much as possible, even losing a scenario. 

VP from Soldiers

All soldiers that are killed during the game are awarded to the opponent for Victory Points.  Soldiers that are captured count double for the value of VP on the soldier.  When a soldier is not brought onto the map by Game 4, the soldier is lost from play but does not count toward Victory Points.


VP from Orders

Orders that require a soldier to exit the map score victory points when an eligible soldier exits from the required area.  For a soldier to be eligible to exit the map the requirements of the orders card must be satisfied.  If the scenario specifics special requirements use those instead of requirements on the Orders card.

- Hold - requirements are met by the landmark being free of enemy soldiers and occupied by friendly soldiers at the end of the last game turn

- Search - requirements are met by a friendly soldier entering the landmark

- Capture - requirements are met by friendly soldiers being the only soldiers on a landmark for a complete game turn.


VP from Events

Certain random events may allow VP to be scored instantly by a player.  When an event scores victory points, make note of the amount on a paper confirming the record with the other players.

VP from Equipment

Equipment has VP values.  Unless specified, the VP value is only scored by the opposing player if the equipment is captured.  Day of Days does not have equipment.

VP from Actions

Tactics cards may provide players with a significant game advantage but come at a potential cost.  When USED, these action cards should be removed from the game and placed in the owning player's VP stack, scoring negative points.  There are also no Tactics Cards in Day of Days.

My Thoughts

I don't see myself as a war gamer (even though I reviewed quite a few this summer) and there are very few I will willingly play.  And as I said earlier, I haven't had much luck with miniatures games.  But the ease of play, wonderful components, and the card system make this game work for me.  I really enjoy it and can't believe that we have played all but one of the Day of Days scenarios already.

Components

As we played the demo we remarked on the quality of the cardboard.  Jeff tried to steer us away from how it was made (which made us laugh) but from our conversation I can assure you that the map and dog tags are made to last.  The painting on the figures is great.  I've seen more detailed museum quality painting, but these are really well done.  It is easy to tell that some love has been put into the painting.  I also expect that they will resist wear over time.

The artwork on the map and cards is also very nice. I like the watercolor / saturated look.  There are many different pictures on the soldiers cards and the story deck. 

I am glad that we have the new border I like it a lot better than the original border.  The new player mats and story deck mats are also great.  It took a bit for ours to lay flat but after a few plays they are fine.

We also ended up keeping and using the tuck boxes that the cards and figures came in, which is a bit unusual since we usually use deck boxes.  So don't throw them out they may prove useful for you!

The component quality is outstanding, which does explain the high price.  I know a question a lot of people have when people purchasing SMG is if what comes in the box is worth the price.  It can be an instant turn off for a lot of people.  But, there is a reason.

My husband equated SMG to your local bakery.  Yes, you could go to Wal*Mart and buy some Chips Ahoy for cheaper than a dozen cookies at your local bakery.  But which would your really prefer?  I think I would go for the bakery; they are going to be fresher, made with better ingredients, and probably taste better.  That's what Lost Battalion Games is like for me, they cost more but the quality is better and you know you have people who stand behind their product. 

Soldiers

I know some have said that Day of Days needs more added to it to make it playable and I would disagree.  I've enjoyed all the Day of Days scenarios thus far and haven't even touched our expansions (other than the soldiers).  I will agree that buying more soldiers adds a great deal.


When we purchased our soldiers we made sure that we balanced them out between the Americans and Germans.  After playing a few scenarios I think this was a good idea.  You won't know the strengths and weakness of your soldiers but you can be general with the weapons available to you.

Knowing your soldiers and what cards they add to the deck is important.  A lot of zip and wound results may be good when when you're being shoot at but can hurt you when you get into combat contact.  I discovered this in our last game.  I was doing well as the Germans and felt like I was going to win until my husband starting moving in close and fighting my soldiers.  Then he was killing guys left with his Kill cards while all I had was Zip.  You also have to know how they react to events.  One of my soldiers will never, ever carry a grenade because he will probably drop it and attack himself; otherwise he is a strong soldier with good range.

On a side note if you want a good storage solution for your miniatures we found that a Plano 3500 fit the soldiers that come with Day of Days and a squad bundle.  They fit in there well and don't move around too much.  You can add some padding around so they don't move at all if you wish.

Set-up

Setting up the map is pretty easy.  The scenario book pictures are helpful when setting up the map.  It fits together like a puzzle and fits together well without being too tight so that you worry about damaging the pieces to take them apart.  I still spend most of the set up time picking out my squad.  The scenarios also tell you what cards to take out for the landmarks and which orders to use. If you play more than one scenario in a row changing the map is pretty quick since you already have most of the pieces out on the table.

Rules

I was lucky to learn how to play the game from the designer himself.  That aside I think this is a really easy game to learn.  Someone who knows the game can easily teach a new player.  You may want to not overwhelm them with every rule right away but they will quickly pick up on how to play.  The rule book is a sort of living rule book that is updated online from time to time.  You may not like this.  I think it's a good idea that the designers are constantly working on the game and adding rules when a new situation occurs or clarifying a confusing rule.  Each new game comes with the latest rules version available when it is put together.


I also think the rules keep it simple.  Simple rules are good for me.  I don't want to have to look up every possible modifier that many miniature gamers enjoy.  The four possible modifiers depend on what tile you are on and where the shooter is.   Because of this many things are abstracted.

Measuring is still the hardest part of the game for me and even after a few games I have to stop and think about how exactly hide or shoot are measured.  The scenario book does have a player aide on the back but I think a player aide telling you exactly how to measure shoot, hide, look extra would be helpful.  Also, Jeff explained that measuring takes place from the dot on the dog tag, but I haven't seen this in the rule book.  There has been some questions when we measure.  Is it always from the dog tag or do you measure shooting from the front since this is the shooting arc?

The other simple aspect of the rules I like are the cards.  The cards limit what you can do on a turn.  I like that.  I don't have to think of the million possible choices I could have, I only have six possible choices.  But I have never felt that I'm stuck because of this.  After all my opponents only have the same six options.  This does put a bit of luck into the game.  You may not draw the cards you need and then you lose initiative.  But, knowing your squad, knowing what cards they have in their deck and doing what gives you the best chance can mitigate some of that luck.  It actually feels like a bit of deck building in a sense when you choose your soldiers.


Scenarios / Order Cards

Scenarios and order cards will also affect how you choose your squad.  I lost a scenario where I had to hold a landmark and after the game I realized that if I had taken the MG42 and his assistant I would have stood a much better chance.  I didn't take him because of his cost, but he probably would have given me a better chance because of his cards with lot of hit and hit+s.  There is a balance in the soldiers.  Soliders worth the most victory points are well worth it and soldiers worth less show it in lower stats, personality quirks, and so forth.   Both types of soldiers will be useful for different reasons.  Someone who knows their soldiers well may also have an advantage over a new player since they will know who to use in the scenario or situation. When soldiers get wounded or pinned most will see a decrease in stats, some get better when wounded.  Hiding is also easier when pinned. 


Order cards also add a bit of a deduction element to the game.  You may have an idea of what your opponent is doing but you may not be totally sure.  It helps create a bit of a "Fog of War" many like in their war games.

I prefer using orders but even scenarios without orders can be interesting.  I also don't completely like the orders to kill everyone or even half of the opposing soldiers.  This is okay but patrol, hold, and reconnaissance missions are more interesting to me.


Having multiple orders for each scenario can also keep you guessing each time you replay one.  Orders also make SMG a victory point game; another aspect that I like.  Because there are multiple paths to victory (Events / Prisoners / Orders / Kills) even when you can't obtain your objective you still have a chance of winning.  Some of our games have been close even when one of us has achieved our objective and the other has not because of these multiple paths. 

Story Deck

I really like the Story Deck.  I like the random events, even when they hurt me.  Most of the random events are landmark specific so if you can avoid the landmarks you won't be hurt by them but you also won't gain from them.  Of course this may discriminate one player from another if one's objective is to hold a landmark.  They are thematic and can be explained away by events that really could occur during a war.  It can still be painful as three of your soldiers are killed by a crashing plane, or your perfect plan is foiled when you have to reload.  Still they don't happen every turn or every game.  The most we have had are three in one game.  Global effects brought by the cards can also change your plans.

Final Thoughts

Luck, abstraction and cost are perhaps the worst parts of the game.  This certainly isn't the case for me.  I like luck in my games, not pure strategy.  The random events, the card draws for hit checks and so forth are the very things I like.  I'm not always good at planning out the best strategy so luck can sometimes be on my side.  Of course I have been annoyed when I'm constantly losing in Combat Contact because all I draw are Zip and Pin.


SMG is certainly not an absolute simulation of warfare.  I'll give that up to have a miniatures game that doesn't require the time investment and complex rules of a real simulation.  It's almost like SMG is a new type of hybrid between miniatures gaming and board gaming.

I am not a war gamer or miniatures gamer.  I love board games, history and have an interest in playing miniatures games.  We have tried other war games and miniatures games and most sit on the shelf.  Day of Days has not and I think its do to the hybrid nature.  If my husband can get me to buy in and enjoy this game you may be able to do the same with your significant others.  You could use this as a gateway for your children to get into your hobby, spend time with the family, or with a causal gamer friend.  People who enjoy a more complex game will also enjoy SMG.  The rules are simple and easy to understand, the choices limited, which makes for a faster playtime, and the events keep things interesting.  I think it's a solid game that is easy to fall in love with.

Plus it's made by a small, wonderful, family-run company that is motivated and excited about what they are putting out there.  They have lots of plans for the future that will only add more and more to the game.  I'm excited about the campaign rules and possible session reports that may come out some day.  I do worry how they will deal with expansions.  Everything is set up in chapters, and certain characters are seen in every expansion so far.  What will happen with the newest starter set?  Will you need to buy Day of Days in order to use future expansions?

While these questions remain overall this is a great game.  I like the story, the game play, and the uniqueness of my characters.  I look forward to the next chapter with the larger maps (we're going to need a bigger table), equipment, and new events.


Quick Stats:

Designers: Jeff Billings, Mike Billings
Artist: Jeff Billings, Mike Billings
Players: 2 - 6
Publishers: Lost Battalion Games
Ages: 10 and up
Mechanics: Campaign / Battle Card Driven, Card Drafting, Modular Board, Storytelling

Photo Credits: from www.boardgamegeek.com - my eye (earache), Ubergeek (Walt Mulder), CWattie (CWattie), Michael Bowker (pvi99th), Kevin Duke (kduke)(2), Angus McEachran (Ginjav), Garret Arcoraci (poboxgarret), Michael Bowker (pvi99th), Garret Arcoraci (poboxgarret), Kevin Duke (kduke)(2), Tom Boyd (Tommy20), Steven Tower (Unasta), Rob Koch (robkoch2112), Garret Arcoraci (poboxgarret), Rob Koch (robkoch2112),Steven Tower (Unasta),  Garret Arcoraci (poboxgarret), Michael Bowker (pvi99th), Rob Koch (robkoch2112), Kevin Duke (kduke) (2), David J Schaffner (FlyXwire), Angus McEachran (Ginjav), Garret Arcoraci (poboxgarret), Rob Koch (robkoch2112)(2), CWattie (CWattie)

All others were taken by my husband.  Thanks to all for sharing their wonderful photographs.  



Friday, August 10, 2012

Oregon


During the 1800s, the American west enticed many a settler and adventurer.  The opportunity for land and riches had many leaving their homes, packing up the Conestoga Wagon and heading into the wild frontier.  The journey west was difficult and dangerous, for many the reward was worth the risk.

Oregon starts as players have reached their new homes and look out over the potential the land holds.  They will build new buildings and put down their roots in this new land. Will they be successful or with the wilds prove to rough?  Your journey is done, but in "Oregon" the adventure has just begun.


Components / Set-up

 One thing I associated with the Hans im Gluck games I own is quality.  Oregon is no exception to the rule; the meeples, cards, tokens and even the artwork on the back of the board shows that this is a company that cares about the products they release. 

The board is divided into a grid and shows a map of what Oregon may have looked like in 1846 with lakes, forests, rocky hills, and railroad tracks.  The columns and rows of the grid each have a symbol that corresponds with the 50 landscape cards.  You have wagon, buffalo, settler, eagle, and campfire.

The cards are very small but I like the linen finish.  These cards are shuffled and three are dealt to each player.  The rest are placed face-down next to the game board. 

There are 21 building cards, 3 each of the post office, harbor, church, coal pit, gold mine, warehouse, and train station.  These should be shuffled and each player is given one.  The rest are placed face-down next to the board.  There are also 28 building tiles for each of the different types of buildings.  These are sorted by building type and placed in 7 stacks, face-up, next to the board. 

There are 60 farmer meeples in each of the four player colors.  Each player takes their 15. One is placed on the 0 space of the scoring track.


The gold and coal tiles are double-sided with coal or gold on one side.  The coal has either a value 1, 2, or 3 on the back and the gold has either a value 3, 4 or 5 on the back.  These are shuffled in their respective tiles and placed next to the board. 

Each player than takes one of the extra turn token and a joker token and places them active side up in front of them. 

There are seven start tiles, one for each building type.  These are shuffled and each player draws one and places it face up in front of them.  The rest of the start tiles are placed back in the box.

Goal of the Game

As players gaze over rich farmlands, mines, lakes and rivers of Oregon, they will build ports, churches, post offices, and train stations.  But they must choose the best places to farm and the right time to build, scoring the most points, for planning is necessary to win Oregon.

The First Game Round

Players should choose a starting player who places his start tile on any space on the board board that matches the background color of the tile.  The other players do the same with their start tile.  After this first round play continues in clockwise order.

Playing the Game

On a player's turn, he does the following in the order shown:

1.  Play Cards:  the player plays 2 cards from his hand and either places one of his farmers or a building on an empty space on the game board.

2.  Score:  next, there is usually a scoring opportunity

3.  Use Extra Turn:  if a player's extra turn token is on the active side they may execute a "Play Cards" and "Score" a second time

4.  Draw Cards:  finally, the player draws cards to return his hand size to 4

1.  Play Cards

On a player's turn, they must play 2 cards.  After playing 2 cards, the player then either places one of his farmers on an empty space on the game board or takes one building tile and places it on an empty space, on the board, with the appropriate background color. 

Place Farmer


When you play two landscape cards, you must place a farmer.  The symbols on the landscape cards correspond to the symbols along the top and left sides of the game board.  The two cards played represent a row and column on the game board.  The player chooses which card represents the column and which one represents the row.  The area on the game board represented by the crossing of the row and column is where the player may place their farmer.

Each area has 6 spaces and the player may place his farmer in any empty space of the 6.  If the space already has a farmer or a building they may not place the farmer.

The player may place their farmer on any empty space in the selected area except water spaces.  The player then places the used landscape cards face up on a discard pile next to the landscape card supply. 

Place a Building

When the player plays 1 landscape card and 1 building card, he must place a building tile on the game board.  The landscape card determines in which row or column the building must be placed.  The picture on the board will match the card.  The player may place the building tile on any space in the row or any space in the column.  The building card played indicates which building he plays.  He takes the corresponding building tile and places it on any empty space with a suitable background color in the indicated row or column.  The player places the used landscape card face up on a discard pile next t the landscape card supply and the used building card face up on a discard pile next to the building card supply. 


These rules must be followed:
  • The player may only choose a building which is still available.
  • The player must always place the building tile on an empty space with the suitable background color.
  • The player may only place a harbor adjacent (diagonally or orthogonally) to a water space
The Joker Token:  if the player's joker token is active (active side up), the player may use the joker instead of playing 1 landscape card, whether he plans to place a farmer or a building.

He plays 1 landscape card to place a farmer or 1 building card to place a building. using the joker to represent the landscape card of his choice in either case.  Once used, he turns his joker token over to the inactive side.

2.  Score

Depending on whether the player placed a farmer or a building he scores as follows:

Farmer scoring 

If the player placed a farmer the player earns points, coal tiles, or gold tiles for all the buildings adjacent to the farmer (orthogonal or diagonal).  In addition, the player may be allowed to activate his joker or extra turn tokens. 

For placing the farmer adjacent to a building the player earns:
  • Post Office:  the player earns 3 points
  • Harbor:  the player earns 4 points
  • Church:  the player earns 1 point for each farmer (all colors) adjacent to the church (max 8 points, min. 1 point)
  • Coal Mine:  the player earns 1 coal tile
  • Gold Mine:  the player earns 1 gold tile
  • Warehouse:  the player earns 1 point and may activate his joker token
  • Train Station:  the player earns 1 point and may activate his extra turn token
The player immediately records any points earned by moving his scoring marker along the scoring track.  The player takes the earned gold tiles and coal tiles and examines them secretly and places them face down in his play area.

Group Scoring

A player earns 5 points whenever he creates a new group of 3 farmers.  They must be connected either horizontally or vertically (diagonally does not count).  If the player later expands a group that was already scored, he earns no extra points.  If a player places a farmer which connects one or more groups, one or more of which had already scored, he earns no extra points.


Building Scoring (all players may score)

If the player placed a building, all players with farmers adjacent to the building  the building earns points, coal tiles, or gold tiles, depending on the building placed.  In addition, they may also be allowed to activate their extra turn tokens or joker tokens.
  • Post Office:  the player earns 3 points for each of his farmers next to the building
  • Harbor:  the player earns 4 points for each of his farmers next to the building
  • Church:  the player earns 1 point for each farmer (all colors) adjacent to the church
  • Coal Mine:  the player earns 1 coal tile for each of his farmers next to the building
  • Gold Mine:  the player earns 1 gold tile for each of his farmers next to the building
  • Ware House:  the player earns 1 point for each of his farmers next to the building and may activate his joker token
  • Train Station:  the player earns 1 point for each of his farmers next to the building and may activate his extra turn token
3.  Use Extra Turn

If the player's extra turn token is lying active side up in his play area, he may now execute steps 1.  Play cards and 2. Score again.  He immediately turns his extra turn token over to the inactive side and plays two cards.  After placing a farmer or building based on the cards played, the player scores for the placed farmer or building, earn points, coal tiles, gold tiles and possibly activating extra turn tokens for himself or another player.  Then he goes to step 4.  Draw cards.  The player may not use two Extra turn during one turn.


4.  Draw Cards

At the end of his turn, the player restores his hand to 4 cards as follows.
  • The player may choose freely to draw from the landscape and building card decks.
  • However, he must always choose such that he has after drawing at least 1 building card and at least 1 landscape card.
If the player draws a building card, or if a player has a building card in his hand for which all building tile have been used, he may discard the useless building card a draw another.  If either the supply of the stacks is exhausted, shuffle the discards for the exhausted stack and replace as the new supply stack. 

One the player has returned his hand to 4 cards, his turn ends and play passes to the player on his left.

Game End

The game ends when either of the following occur:
  • When a player places his last farmer on the board
  • Depending on the number of players:
    • 2 Players:  as soon as 2 kinds of building tiles are exhausted
    • 3 Players: as soon as 3 kinds of building tiles are exhausted, or 
    • 4 players:  as soon as 4 kinds of building tiles are exhausted
The round is played to the end, such that each player has played the same number of turns.  The player to the right of the starting layer always has the last turn.

Now, the players turn over their gold and coal tiles.  Each adds his together and moves his scoring marker accordingly on the scoring track.  The player with the most points is the winner.

If there is a tie for most points, the player among them who has the most farmers on the board is the winner.  If there is still a tie for most, those tied rejoice in their shared victory. 

My Thoughts

Oregon was one of the first hobby games we purchased and playing it feels like putting on your favorite pair of sneakers or hooded sweatshirt.  It's not a game you play everyday, but it's a comfortable fit and an old friend you go back to time and time again. 

Oregon's rules are simple - place a farmer or a building depending on your cards, score points if possible and draw back up to four cards - but the strategy is much deeper.  Using your joker and extra turn tokens, careful hand management, and adept placement of your farmers will be your measure of victory. 


In Oregon you earn victory points for placement of both your farmers and buildings.  This adds a bit of a twist not found in similar games.  Once placed, the worker or building will not move for the rest of the game, but they can keep earning points for both you and your fellow players.   Even if it earns no points when first added, a building or farmer can start earning in later turns. 

The locations of the buildings and farmers are also a crucial aspect of strategy.  Since groupings of three farmers of the same color earn bonus points, awareness of where you and your opponents are placing the farmers is key.  Don't miss out on an opportunity, but be sure to block if you can.  Study the board for the best location to place a building to maximize your points.

Points earned from the buildings are also interesting.  Some buildings earn a player very few points, such as the train station but at the same time enable the player to get back their extra turn marker.  The Harbor, for example, earns a player 4 points but can be difficult to place, and can't earn points on all sides; since it must be near water.  The hidden scoring from the coal and gold mines keeps players guessing in a close game and gives hope to players who may be behind on the score track but have a lot of tokens.



Some players may be turned off by the lack of theme in Oregon.   But the mechanics are solid and they do correlate well with what little theme is in the game.  Luck is a factor in the game and pure strategists may be annoyed when they aren't getting the exact combinations of cards they want.

Don't be afraid to throw away cards you don't want for one turn.  That mine doing nothing in the corner this turn can actually turn out to be the difference in winning or losing at the end of the game.  Plus careful use of you cards in combination of your joker can help you get the combination you want, even if it takes a turn or two.


The quality of the components are amazing.  Even the box is great.  I love the outline drawings on the insert.  I wish the box was smaller since there is a lot of empty space.  Unfortunately the board wouldn't fit if it was.  The artwork on both sides of the board is beautiful.  The back is the same picture found on the box, just in sepia tones.  The gird and artwork on the front offers players a  variety of choices for placing farmers and buildings.  I don't believe the game as ever looked the same at the end even when you are limited by where you can place particular buildings.  Careful study of the game board shows a lot of flexibility for building and farmer placement that may not be evident at first glance. 

It's a quick game to set-up and play, which means it's great for a week night gaming session,  or when you want something light or even a little heavier.  The rules are simple enough but the strategy deep enough to appeal to a variety of gamers and a great addition to many a collection. 



Quick Stats:

Designers:  Henrik Berg, Åse Berg
Artist: Franz Vohwinkel
Players: 2-4
Publishers: Hans im Glück Verlags-GmbH, Lautapelit.fi,Rio Grande Games
Time: 45 minutes
Ages: 10 and up
Mechanics: Tile Placement, Area Control / Area Influence

Photo Credits:  from www.boardgamegeek.com: Carl Anderson (carl67lp), Ted Alspach (toulouse)(2), Rik Van Horn (Rokkr) (2), Gary James (garyjames), Robert Zurfluh (Noaceyet), Raiko Puust (binraix), Gary James (garyjames), Rik Van Horn (Rokkr)(2), Bruce Murphy (thepackrat), ♪ Isaäc Bickërstaff ♫ (Verkisto), Bruce Murphy
(thepackrat), James Fehr (fehrmeister), Bruce Murphy (thepackrat), Olav F. (olavf)

Thanks for sharing these beautiful pictures with us!
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